I had waited all year for a snow climb up the Twins, and this day was perfect. Low overnight temps gave the snow shape, and the cloudy, cool conditions held it in place. Managed to ascend via Broad's Fork TH using the standard route in running shorts and running shoes with strap crampons and ice axe in good time. Wish the snow would last another month or so. Fusing trail running and mountaineering always looks and feels better with a wobbly boot-ski descent.
Standard Broad's Fork route. Up and down in under 5 hours. "Baptized" myself in the creek beside the Lake Blanche/Broad's Fork parking lot afterwards.
From what I gather, the Broad's Fork route is likely the "least interesting" approach to the Twins. I'm planning on making an attempt via Stairs Gulch in the next few weeks to see if that holds up.
8/21/2010 - Finally got up here with some friends after living in Salt Lake for nearly a year. Slid down a scree field back to the main trail, scared a few mountain goats, but mostly got a lot of rocks in my shoes.
8/14/2011 - East Twin only. Hiked up along the ridge from Ferguson Canyon with Stephen. Some nice crazy exposure and scrambling opportunities. Glissaded/ descended via Broads Fork where we caught a hitch to the mouth of the canyon and walked the remaining half mile back to the car.
9/10/2011 - Hiked up via the Robinson couloir with Stephen, then continued over to Sunrise Peak.
7/30/2012 - First part of triple traverse via Robinson couloir with Sage.
7/13/2013 - via Robinson Ridge with Andy. Continued on to Sunrise.
Up the Robinson variation, admiring a huge old slide that pretty much cleaned it out. Then endless crust-punching, post-holing hell along the ridge. I was going to tag some neighbors, but the unexpectedly soft snow on the ridge was a bit much. Down something like the standard route, with some sketchy, loose 4th class downclimbing to avoid more time spent on the ridge.
What I wouldn't give for consolidated snow... Trip report.
One of the finest days possible in Utah. Took me a couple attempts to reach it and the scree field late summer is tedious and miserable. I'd go before the snow melts and do as much as you can in crampons. The route was hard to stick past the Beaver Pond, but just walk as far as you can towards Sunrise Peak and then head to your right. You get around the nasty face of the peaks that way. A good scramble or light climb from there. You might have to go up a crack or two depending on your exact route. Then to the East is wilderness and to the West is a mess of city lights.
Took the east direct face through broken cliff bands. Really fun but sketchy approach.
There were a couple spots that made me a little nervous on the way up and I was glad to finally make it to the top! We went up the Robinson route and back down the standard route which didn't seem bad to me. There was some pretty amazing views and it was a beautiful day.
Perfect Fall weather! Went up the Robinson's Variation and down the never-ending Talus slopes leading into Lake Blanche Basin from the summit of Dromedary. Long day, but worth it!
We went up the Robinson route---FAR better views but much more difficult IMO. I didn't think the scrambling down the standard route was any worse than what was on the Robinson variation. The summit is AWESOME and it was a beautiful day!
08/14/2012 2:15 to summit East Twin, 4 minutes to West Twin
05/27/2011 Triple Traverse from Tanners Gulch
05/08/2010 From Tanner's Gulch, Triple Traverse
09/19/2009 Cottonwood Ridge Traverse
08/08/2009 both summits, TT
07/03/2009 both summits
05/16/2009 Both summits, TT
08/16/2008 Up from Ferguson Canyon, TT
07/19/2008 Broad's Fork to both Twins, then Cottonwood Ridge Traverse
05/10/2008 Triple Traverse via Tanner's gulch
09/18/2007 East Twin/Cottonwood Ridge traverse
09/04/2006 Triple Traverse with J Anderson
10/05/2005 East twin with J Anderson
This hike was a lot of fun. My 2nd solo summit!! The crack that you climb on the ridgeline was the highlight for sure!!
6/15/2016 Via Broads Fork. 3:43 RT including West Peak. Awesome glissade.
9/20/2015 Cottonwood Ridge Traverse via Ferguson Canyon.
7/20/2014 With the WMC as part of the Cottonwood Ridge Traverse. West Twin Peak to Mount Superior.
4/20/2014 Climbed the East Peak and the West Peak as part of the Triple Traverse from Tanners Gulch. Unbelievable early spring climb with Lubos Pavel, Donovan Lynch, and John Badila. Descent into Broads Fork.
6/30/2013 Climbed with the WMC via Ferguson Canyon and traverse from Storm Mountain. We had planned to do the Triple Traverse upon reaching Twins but we were not moving to quick this day. Temps in the valley reached 103 degrees today. Awesome route, one of my favorites. Third time on top of Twins this month.
6/25/2013 Climbed via Ferguson Canyon, traverse from Storm Mountain. Great route, loved the ridge between Storm and Twin. Both East and West Twin.
6/5/2013 Last Peak in the Triple Traverse. On a solo mission I gained the saddle between Sunrise and Dromedary via Broads Fork. From Dromedary I traversed over Sunrise to Twin Peaks. Descended back down Broads Fork. Fun day.
8/11/2012 Both East and West Twin via Broads Fork. Cottonwood Ridge Traverse with WMC.
6/16/2012 Both East and West Twin via Broads Fork.
9/26/2011 Both East and West Twin via Broads Fork.
8/26/1999 Via Broads Fork. Climbed Twin Peaks with my mom on her 50th birthday and the day after my 21st.
Finished the Triple Traverse w/ the Twin's. The conditions made for some great mixed climbing and exposure. We finally got some sunshine after coming off of Sunrise. Outstanding day with the WMC.
Very beautiful area. You get to see alpine ridge and timp! It was a fairly strenuous hike, and I decided to bust out some 5th class moves near the summit. Wow, what great exposure!
tried once before but aborted - didn't give myself enough time!
East & West peak as part of Triple Traverse 2 July 2014.
I absolutely loved it.
I had tried to hike this three weeks earlier but had to turn around due to scheduling issues. Well worth the return trip. Took the standard route up. Perfect weather.
Ended up heading up the Robinson route after some route finding issues. Amazing views of the ridgeline and the entire valley.
Man, I hate this peak! It never ended. I quickly lost the trail after the lake and had to hunt for a good route up to a ridge and then saw my destination. I almost gave up. I headed up to the East peak and met some nice folks sharing some whiskey and hiked over to the West peak with them. No Triple Traverse today. Just too tired and out of time.
#2 - via BF>Robinson
We went straight up the ascending cliff band of the east face. it was a bitch, but it was really fun.
06/08/06 Jan lead Kim, Christine and I up to successfully bag these two in snow conditions. Spotted a moose at the beaver pond on the way up.
07/15/16: Broke my trekking pole on the way down