I climbed the route today. I agree it's a fine route, and should be a pure sport route with the addition of a few bolts (3-5 maybe... 1 is a bit stingy).
FYI I've seen Andy putting up Cruisin for a Bruisin. He can definitely climb 5.11, or at least did 15 years ago when I saw it ... With fully 40 lbs of rack, pitons, bolts, you name it. So why you speak with such authority about Andy I'm not sure.
The Crux pitch is 5.10c, not 5.11, and it's not chossy by Yam standards. Maybe you were feeling off that day because I know you are a fine climber. The next pitch is maybe 10a. In general I agree Andy's Yam grades are soft and that includes Broken Wing, but he's consistent.
I like his routes and I like what he's done to Yam. Why not turn it into a giant sport crag? You want adventure, walk for an extra hour to CMC. But that's just my opinion. :)
Thanks for the description. I didn't look at it until we were done, but I think it's a good one.
sawback - Jun 2, 2020 5:45 pm - Voted 7/10
Good routeI climbed the route today. I agree it's a fine route, and should be a pure sport route with the addition of a few bolts (3-5 maybe... 1 is a bit stingy).
FYI I've seen Andy putting up Cruisin for a Bruisin. He can definitely climb 5.11, or at least did 15 years ago when I saw it ... With fully 40 lbs of rack, pitons, bolts, you name it. So why you speak with such authority about Andy I'm not sure.
The Crux pitch is 5.10c, not 5.11, and it's not chossy by Yam standards. Maybe you were feeling off that day because I know you are a fine climber. The next pitch is maybe 10a. In general I agree Andy's Yam grades are soft and that includes Broken Wing, but he's consistent.
I like his routes and I like what he's done to Yam. Why not turn it into a giant sport crag? You want adventure, walk for an extra hour to CMC. But that's just my opinion. :)
Thanks for the description. I didn't look at it until we were done, but I think it's a good one.