Broken Wing, 5.10d

5th Pitch- 25m- 5.10d Andy calls this 5.10c/d on his topo, but it felt more like 5.11 and will feel even harder to you if you are not use to Yam’s chossy limestone. My second broke off a hold. Move left to start, but reach down and back clean that first bolt as soon as you clip your second bolt. It protects your ankles at first but then would cause serious rope drag on the hard traverse back right. The 3rd through 5th clips involve a difficult rightward traverse on down sloping chossy limestone holds. After the fifth clip, the climbing starts to ease up to 5.10-. I skipped a bolt way out right and went straight up. There is no need for the 4” piece Andy talks about in his notes on this pitch, it is well bolted. The fixed belay is on a small comfortable ledge. Broken Wing, 5.10d, 7 Pitches, West End, Yamnuska, Canmore, Alberta, September, 2012