rpc - Jul 1, 2005 1:52 pm - Voted 10/10
Does look awkward... for a .7 even in photo.
Sweet lookin' granite though :)
Martin Cash - Jul 1, 2005 2:34 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Does look awkward...Thanks. Sorry for the bad photo, just thought I'd throw some beta out there for those looking for a nice easy 5.7 lead. This is not it! :-)
bc44caesar - Apr 16, 2007 2:08 pm - Hasn't voted
Awkward...agreedI did this route on Sunday and found the crux confusing...I tried all kinds of stuff to get in the crack from face moves to arm bars, but with wasted rubber on my shoes I just kept slipping back down to the bottom! Finally I tied to lieback the edge of the crack and it was pretty easy. Probably not 5.7 easy though. The crack above was pretty sweet, it just ended too soon!
Martin Cash - Apr 16, 2007 2:33 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Awkward...agreedRight on, that must be the way to do it. We did the knee bar and dual arm bar thing, which felt atleast 5.9 to me.
Speaking of stiff ratings, how did you like that crux slab move on B.S. to get to this thing? Right where that old bolt is sure feels harder than 5.6! I went around and my friend Bruce who can follow 5.10 couldn't even free it on toprope. :-)
bc44caesar - Apr 16, 2007 5:41 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Awkward...agreedYou know, I actually don't remember. I led straight up to the anchor and don't remember getting sketched out (got way sketched out earlier on Dogleg Crack on Alphabet!), but I probably just kept telling myself it was "only" 5.6!!
We climbed the 5.8 bolted friction pitch to the left of Snag Crack too, which my partner led. He was expecting to cheese-grater down the whole thing since he was palming and smearing on nothing! Wasn't too bad to second though, he he...
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