Standard route from Turtmann hut. No sight, lots of snow and noone had broken trail for days (see the logs below...).
But what else to do in this "summer"?
In a period of mixed weather, we had one good day. We were ready for it, camping just below 2900 m, some 20 minutes away from the Brunegg Glacier. Clear star studded skies were waiting for us as we woke up at 3 am, and that immediately lifted our spirits. Though some clouds developed later on, it stayed mostly sunny for the rest of the day.
However, it was also much warmer than usual, which meant that the layer of snow on the ice of the north face was soft and didn't offer a particularly solid and trustworthy climbing surface.
We pitched out the whole route from the shrund upwards, and that, combined with the soft snow, meant that we needed no less than 5 hours to ascend just 200 m. For the final few meters we followed the NE ridge; the very top of the N face was almost more rock than ice, and the occasional stone whizzing by told us that it was better to avoid the very center of the face right below the summit.
After a late and short lunch break on the top, we quickly descended the normal route. In two hours we were back at our tent.
We planned to climb the NE-face but due to early morning thunderstorms and high temperatures we decided to switch to the normal route. A nice outing.
Nice climb with great views on the Weissmies. Did it twice.
With a bad weather forecast in the Suisse Alps for the next 4 days, we decided to try a less demanding climb on a lower summit. Our goal was the North Ridge on Brunegghorn. To be ahead of the bad weather, we took an early start at the Turtmannhütte. We reached the Bruneggjoch at 7.00 o'clock, started to climb the ridge but were caught in thick fog and a little wet snow. We left the ridge and reached the summit after all via the normal route.
Leading a youth group of the Dutch alpine club
A brilliant tour in the Valais/Switzerland.
Easy conditions from the Turtmann Hut.
I did it with a friend. Made a bivaouc on the Brunnegglacier beneath the Bishorn. Preety Icy in that time. Nice route!!!
We (M.de Rooij and L.Boer) made went up via Topalihut (burned down), made a bivac (with great view) just below the Schollihorn. The day after we went over the Schollihorn to the face.
Briljant short steep icetour...max.55-60’ 300hm.
Quit icy at the time. Briljant view to the Weisshorn and Bishorn. Be early, before climbers reach the Westridge(stonefall).