Buni Zom mountain is one of the most unexplored mountain areas in the world. It is in NWFP region of Pakistan closed to Chitral city. It is climbed only 3 times and totally only 7 people reach the summit. The first ascent was in 1957 for a two party New Zealand expedition W.K.Berry and C.H.Tynadle. They reach the summit attempting the mountain from East (Gordoghan Zom glacier) and climbing first the north face of Buni Zom north after descent to north col and finally climbing the north ridge of the Main peak. In august of1975 a Japanese expedition where 3 members summit for South face and following the south west ridge. The third and last ascent was in 1979 from two Americans climbers, climbing the Southwest ridge.
The climbing of the mountain start from Harchin village 140 Km on the way from Chitral to Gilgit. Harchin is about 20 Km far from Mastuj, and you can go there only by jeep. For Harchin (2800m) village you have to trek 14Km to BC, first crossing Raman village that is from the other side of the Mastuj river and after passing from the last village named Phargam. The route to Base camp is the trek that cross Phargam An high Pass (5045m). Tha Base Camp is in Kulakmali area at 3950m altitude Total trek to BC is one full day or two days, and porter need two days and is two stages.
Red Tape - Information
Permits required as an peak higher than 6500 meter in Pakistan. The permits must be got about 3 months before the expedition. you have to contact with Ministry of Minorities, Culture, Sports, Tourism and Youth Affairs of Pakistan long time before to get the permit that it cost about 3000$ for 7 member expedition. Also a local permit required for the Chitral region, that it easily get it from Chitral's police station (no fees). This is just a registration for every tourist in Chitral.
You can ask info about the Buni Zom mountain from the local tour operator "Terichmir Travel" which is located in Chitral. The owner, Abdul Razaq is the one of the few guides that know very well Buni Zom and Tirich Mir area, his email address is terichmirtravel AT yahoo.com
When To Climb
The climbing period are not standard, and depend from year to year. The 3 ascents was in August and probably this is the best climbing period. Last year the attempts were in June-July but at this period there is a lot of snow.
The camps are free and you don’t need a special permit.
- Pakistan 2002, Buni Zom 6551m, Attempt to Gordoghan Zom 6240m, 2/7/2002 - 30/7/2002
- Pakistan 2004, Buni Zom 6551m, Ascent to Gordoghan Zom III 6158m, 25/5/2004 - 22/6/2004
- Pakistan 2007, Buni Zom 6551m, Attempt to Buni Zom Main (6370m), ascent to Buni Zom South 6220m, First ascent of the unclimbed 6MT 6115m, Buli Zom North Face and tragedy, 12/7/2007 - 7/8/2007
- Terich Mir Travel
is a tour operator located in Chitral and they have the best knowledge about the area.
- Buni Zom, Trich Mir, Noshaq and Istoro Nal
We organiz expedition to Hindu Kush and Kindu Raj mountains.
- Askole Treks & Tours
Arranging Mountaineering expeditions and Trekking trips for climbers and trekkers.