An exciting climb with great views. Unfortunately I broke my camera on the way down due to the loose rock on the trail. I also injured my knee due to a fall.
Led all the pitches except the first one. Lots of route-finding and traversing to keep it at 5.8...great day though. We ended up doing 8 pitches and 5 double rope rappells. I hope Josh's knee heals well.
Car to car - made simu rappels to beat the dark.
Shirley and I tagged it on a 2-day outing (camped at benches below col). Ran into jhalz and co. at Col. Slog to Col SUCKS w/o snow. Next time we return to the area, it'll be as day outing. Lower half of route is a bit loose. Things get better the higher you go. As some others noted, we too were not sure how far right to traverse the ledge 150 feet below summit (wasted time exploring). Did some off-route slab-to-OW pitch, followed by a licheny downward traverse followed by a flared chimney pitch (excellent, bit sandbagged at 5.8) followed by some wide 5.8 cracks. Single rope raps down (all were maxing out the 60 meter rope) the route. Gully SUCKED more on descent. Overall an OK line, not too memorable.
A high quality, sustained, interesting route on solid rock. Bivied at the Burgundy Col, and climbed Silver Star to boot.
Was following Willow (as signed below). There were a couple of scary (for a 5.8) moves on P3, but Willow made them look easy. Had to bail before the last pitch. Really beautiful area with amazing views though - will surely come back!
Bailed before the last pitch (using the NW face variation). Was confused about the last pitch and after the first two pitches on the North Face proper with its not-quite-solid rock, wasn't in the mood for experimentation. It is possible that we didn't go far enough along the ledge system, but it was not obvious to me where the line went. The rock does look more solid on the last pitch though. The ledge system also had lots of snow, and retreating with a single 60m rope took as long as climbing up - would recommend doubles. Incredible views though, to an otherwise not-quite-perfect day.
Car to car in a day. Nice route, a bit loose. The last pitch was stellar.
excellent route to an elusive summit. some very fine climbing on this one, exposed, solid and some good route finding challenges. this is a fairly long route with a brutally steep approach. two day job for most parties.