This is a route which must be done by every climber visiting Condoriri Range. We used one ice screw on the first pitch, after that there are 2 fixed bolts. The last meters to the summit are loose rocks. Be aware of another teams while you are climbing the couloir due to rock fall.
4 pitches conditions pretty decent except top where snow was pretty heavy at time. Used nuts, two ice pickets and 4 ice screws. Took us about 2 1/2 hors from above Bergschrund. Climb was a D about 65 degrees maybe 70 degrees towards the summit
the highlight of our Bolivia Expedition 2017 with andean summit adventure, Ecuador ... the whole team on the summit! wonderful climb!
Climbed in 2011 with travel tracks, first summit of the season. Equal favourite climb of all time although I will admit crawling some sections of the ridge(it was my fourth climb ever!) awesome exposure
Climbed with Ilona in 6 hours from base camp.
Ok guys, the normal route to the top of Condoriri is simply sensational.
Still you will need to keep your blood cool on the final ridge. It is very thin and sharp.
I have the memory of a fantastic sunshine. The sun was red and perfectly round. Unfortunately I was just on the ridge and could not take any picture.
thought i would have more juice for la izkirda but the scree slope for hell too its tool from my knees
I attempted the Cabeza de Condor the day after summitting Pequeno Alpamayo. Although the conditions in the gulley weren´t very good, I topped out, but didn´t go for the ridge since it was in very bad shape and dangerous. One of my partners (Pedro) was hit in the back of the neck with a chunk of falling ice after the second rappel. The gulley in the upper half doesn´t have a lot of snow, is rather narrow and consists of mostly mixed climbing right now. Hopefully the conditions will be better soon!
Exposed! Great climb!
Pretty scary ridge! Spectacular sunrise at the ridge with views of the sorrounding mountains and Titicaca Lake. Great Summit!
Out of season climbing I dont think so, weather was perfect, the ridge was scary and I loved every minute of it.. However if I see another piece of scree ANYWHERE the crampons are going in the bin...
my first expedition, my first mountain outof europe. Two nights up in the morraine camp...mountain sickness....great memories
My first time on such an exposed ridge. It was exciting!
Beautiful ascent, a lot of exposure on the ridge.
Snowy and stormy weather after 9 AM, 20 or 30 cm of fresh snow above 5200 m, couloir and ridge in pretty good conditions
6 hours of ascent from the camp along the lake at 4800 m
Attempted the Cabeza via the normal route, spending a night at high camp. Conditions were generally decent, with stepped snow all the way up the couloir and on the ridge. Snow conditions on the ridge, however, were a bit sketchy, with loose sugar snow underneath a surface crust, which meant no effective means of protection, so we turned back about 200-300 feet below the summit. Still a great day, though!
Abnormally thin, dry conditions made this a close attempt. The scree-turned-45 degree dirt slope was a grind (maybe avoid w/ longer route around Austria, night at high camp). A few minor crevasse crossings (for now) and one major one that required a two-axe mantle. Main couloir is 1/3 dreamy nieve, 1/3 hard ice, 1/3 hellish loose rock. After surviving this, we went down b/c ridge above was loose rock, mostly void of snow. Overall, I wouldn't recommend this route right now (possibly better options than couloir exist on N. side of ridge), but it's doable w/ enough ice AND rock pro.
Beautiful climb and incredible exposure! Plus the route was in great condition to boot. About an hour from the top I started wishing I'd brought a partner.
Watch your step!
Beautiful ridge! There was not much snow, and some good ice up high. Next time take more screws! A great summit and truly the most intense mountain route that I have done.
Based ourselves near the lake for 8 nights and climbed Pequenyo Alpamayo, Illucion, Illucioncita and Piramide Blanca.
An excellent aclimitisation session
"We first climbed PequeÒo Alpamayo in the same area, and then we succed in Condoriri. It was hard but great. We took Bolivian Journeys, the whole organization was amazing. Contact them email@example.com www.bolivianjourneys.org It is on Sagarnaga 363"