A fantastic climb. Direct start, standard finish. Attention grabbing climb. All the hype about the pipe pitch is rightly so. Super gut check to step out over what must be 300ft vertical face, and climb probably 8ft of over hanging rock. We climbed it in 6 pitches, all good, pipe pitch (4) spectacular, pitch 5 and 6 great climbing as well. No enjoyment of the scenery, just laser like focus on the climb and getting to the top. The belays for pitches 5 and 6 are small, several sq ft, perched on the edge of the north wall of the arret overhanging the Black Dike. Hardly any psychologic comfort at all.
Will always remember this climb. When we got back down, we learned the shuttle Columbia crashed. A day of personal triumph, doing a super classic climb and a day of national tragedy. The climb was pegged out, the crux, while still dificult to protect had pick holes to hook all over the place.
Very nice hike. Great weather, fantastic views and about 10% the number of people visible across the way on the Franconia traverse. Ascent via the Kinsman Ridge trail and descent via Hi-Cannon past Lonesome Lake (which was anything but lonesome at the time).
Whitney-Gilman Ridge (III 5.7) -- August 31, 2003 -- Climbed with Felix Danila in 5 pitches on Labor Day weekend 2003. We were the second party on the route, but got held up on almost every pitch by the slower party ahead. The route is absolutely fantastic! Very unique for the northeast with a definite alpine feel. It's just like being on a ridge in the Tetons - perfect granite, sustained climbing with interesting moves, and loads of exposure. It is, without a doubt, one of my favorite rock climbs anywhere. Definitely an ultra-classic and worth doing many times.
Moby Grape (III 5.8) -- September 14, 2007 -- Mary and I climbed this route on a windy day during a 4-day trip to NH. We started with Reppy's Crack and then continued on to the top. The pitches leading to the Fickle Finger were great, but the upper pitches were a bit ambiguous with no continuous features to follow. We started climbing at 9:15AM, topped out sometime around 3:30PM, and were back to the car at 5:20PM. I enjoyed the climb, but I think that Whitney-Gilman is the superior climb.
Pretty exciting-got to see the pipe that was installed on the 3rd pitch after Whitney and Gilman had done the route.
Climbed this as a warmup for Mt Washington the next day. I couldn’t tell you the route but it wasn’t a rock climb. I am sure I have the photos of my girlfrind at the time giving me the evil eye at the top. She hated it as I remember. I remember a chairlift for some reason but can’t remember if we used it. If there are no other routes than rock routes we must have used the chairlift which would make this a rather bogus summit log. Let me now if anyone knows. I do remember the girlfriend she was stewardess and she also hated Mt. Washington...
I've done most of the moderate classics on Cannon Cliff. Great rock; great setting.