Casaval Ridge Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 45

KTanner - Jan 3, 2024 10:07 am Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2017

Backlog  Sucess!

Summited in a day w/ dad. Started Avalanche Gulch, moved over to Casaval Ridge at Helen Lake bc I hate crowds.

DMac - May 20, 2023 1:37 am Date Climbed: May 18, 2023

Climbed via impromptu bivy

Departed TH 0630. Efficient ascent via Giddy Giddy Gully til around 11-12K’ when unacclimated and tougher travel conditions commenced. A couple brief 50ish pitch snowclimbs and careful, self anchoring (via axe pic) finagling of quicky melting shelf of catwalk crux delivered me to 13.3ish top around 1800. Affer recon to summit block and with solid weather forecast for the night, bivied at just under 14K’ summit block base. Summited next morn followed by phenom ski descent including west face gully. Epic if tiring adventure. Highly recommend the route for single day push more efficient a/o acclimated climbers.


tmbalboni - Feb 21, 2022 6:20 pm Date Climbed: Feb 19, 2022

Great Conditions   Sucess!

Great climb. Route was in good shape. Car to car trip with a descent down Avi Gulch.


AndrewDLB - May 5, 2020 2:41 pm Date Climbed: Mar 22, 2020

1 day with ski decsent in March  Sucess!

I decided to climb this route in 1 day. It was harder then I expected but through sheer will and mental determination I pulled it off! 14hrs from TH to summit. 2.75 hrs to ski down (mostly in white out) A beautiful route! but very hard as a 1 day climb (this was my first 14er) Watch the video for the full experience!


Harvest - Aug 2, 2017 3:13 pm Date Climbed: May 26, 2017

Fun climb  Sucess!

The Catwalk was out due to a landslide. Great conditions on the rest of the route.


adventurestreet - Mar 1, 2016 12:21 pm Date Climbed: Mar 16, 2012

long day  Sucess!

brutal 22 hour day of climbing. great accomplishment


MattDaddy56 - Sep 10, 2015 11:35 am Date Climbed: Apr 23, 2014


Plenty of snow and the route was good. Unfortunately I was injured prior to the climb so I only made it up to our high camp. My kids went a little further to check out the gendarme's and the catwalk and then returned to camp. Temps just above 0 deg and winds pretty high on first day. Beautiful route that I returned to do in 2015, but a recent heavy snow on top of a hardened crust left lots of unconsolidated snow conditions. Climbing rangers advised against an ascent so we climbed in Yosemite.


96avs01 - Apr 14, 2014 4:22 pm Date Climbed: Apr 12, 2014

Great Route  Sucess!

Good snow coverage, but thin...not sure how long it will hold up. Catwalk already partially/fully melted out in a couple spots. Skis would have been ideal for descent as the snow hasn't fully consolidated and as such descent on foot/snowshoes really sucked. Surprised by how few climbers we saw given the conditions, lots of skiers getting turns though. Season will definitely be moved up a bit this year, my guess would be a month ahead of normal.


WayneFry - Apr 9, 2014 1:35 am Date Climbed: Apr 7, 2014

Casaval classic  Sucess!

Climbed with a team of eight from SMC. Weather shut us down on the first day but not on the second. Perfect weather and great snow conditions. The finish at the top of the ridge is a true classic.


sangus - Apr 29, 2013 2:51 pm Date Climbed: Apr 27, 2013

Perfect Day  Sucess!

Casaval Ridge was melted at the hourglass and catwalk so we took the ridge as far as we could then cut over to the west face. The weather was perfect almost no wind except a little on the summit plateau.

It's looks like Green Butte and Casaval are done for the season. Avalanch Gulch still had plenty of snow. Misery Hill was almost completed melted and the switchbacks were exposed.

We also had a full moon! That gave us some awesome night views. Climbed with a party of 8 with Sierra Mountaineering Group.


FlaaenP - Apr 3, 2013 2:46 pm Date Climbed: May 8, 2012

Casaval in may  Sucess!

Really fun climb with some of my best friends. Pretty icy, difficult route finding, the catwalk was sketchy, and sulfur vents at the summit plateau nearly made me vomit. Almost didn't make the summit. But it was way fun. Great glissading down the gulch.


mrchad9 - Mar 31, 2013 11:04 pm Date Climbed: Mar 29, 2013

2x  Sucess!

Solo dayhike the first morning up, a bit thougher breaking trail the whole route without acclimating but it was well worth it. Just a bit of snow remaining on the catwalk still. By weather the following day proved the dayhike to be a good decision.

First climbed on May 1, 2011 as an overnight, lots of snow on the route that year and clear blue skies, just a little wind. The views were fantastic.


jtree - Jun 24, 2012 12:23 am

First time!  Sucess!

My brother and I climbed the Casaval Ridge as our first climb of Shasta. Great Route, great time, great weather. We spent the first night at 9800 and summited the next day and came back to spend the night again at high camp.


santanoni - May 29, 2012 5:50 pm Date Climbed: May 28, 2012

Good time  Sucess!

Good conditions all around, found the snow slopes a little easier than expected and catwalk just as sketchy as expected.


Vinny - May 25, 2012 2:18 pm

denied : (

Ski attempt with Matt and Robin-2004 but we got weathered off.
fun ski out though.


Bill562 - Apr 29, 2012 9:15 pm Date Climbed: Apr 27, 2012

Casaval  Sucess!

Part of team of six

dkangas - Apr 28, 2012 11:13 am Date Climbed: Apr 21, 2012

First Time  Sucess!

Great Mountain!


Darren9 - Apr 22, 2012 8:28 pm Date Climbed: Apr 21, 2012

Awesome  Sucess!

Possibly for the first time this winter, Casaval is now in fantastic shape. Party of 10 with Sierra Mountaineering Group left camp at 9600 and summited in firm snow with little wind at 9:45, descending Avy Gulch and traverse back to camp. Scenic and fun.

Vitaliy M.

Vitaliy M. - Jul 1, 2011 3:19 pm

x2  Sucess!

Once in 2010 as a Dayhike, once in 2011 as overnight.


mtndonkey - Jun 26, 2011 11:23 am Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2011

Awesome Route  Sucess!

Truly a classic climb. The 11k camp is the best way to go if the winds aren't howling. Travel light and carry your camp with you and you will be back to your car in no time.

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