fun route, but hardly a classic. Sandbagged, unless I took the wrong crack on the 2nd pitch :)
My first desert tower. Perfect weather. Fun Shit.
What an incredible setting! The view from the summit is unrivaled. I was worried it would be too hot to climb, but we had great weather...temps in the 90's. We got an early start and were the only people on the route the entire day. This is hard to believe, since it was a Sunday. There were, however, multiple parties inching their way up the North Chimney. The route was in the shade up until we reached the last pitch.
We climbed the classic Kors Ingalls Route then the next day did a route on the east face on a double 5.9 crack. I wanted to climb that rock formation since I was 10 years old seeing a picture of Castle Tower in a Natl. Geographic magazine in 1962. Climbed it 20 years later.
I've been on Castleton a couple of times. The first time was on the North Chimney, a fantastic route. The second time was on Kor Ingalls, which we shared with tons of other parties. Both routes are good.
good fun, the crux 3rd pitch was pretty easy reachy face climbing on the calcite features, but i'm tall
good day out, part of spring break utah climbing trip, got a little cold without the sun
Climbed with the wife. No problems except for a torn shoelace before beginning. That desert sandstone eats everything. Beauty of a climb. Good to finally climb it after attending Castle Valley Adventist school way back in the early 80s. Better than burning down the school.
May ?, 1996
Fun climb, but gets cool in that chimney. Nasty offwidth to start the second pitch.
North chimney lots of fun
I climbed this with Andy. Warm day, and overdressed. Would not do it again, but maybe the North Chimney route. The last pitch was the most fun.
Beautiful climb to cap off our road trip to moab
Why does this route get so much fame? Kinda sucks. Been polished by thousands of people.
My first desert tower. Not nearly as hard as it has been made out to be.
Like most people, my first desert climb. Fun route, definitely a bit burly. The route is shady so if you are doing it as a team of 3 you will get cold!
2nd my hubby up this climb - WOW! Great climb - great view!
I would have had a better time if I wouldn't have had the Brazillians below me smokin' up a storm. . . but I just climbed faster to get away from it :)
Scary rap especially in a 40mph wind - blew our ropes right around the corner. Glad when I got both feet on the ground again!
Can't wait to do it again!!
(to check out the whole story - www.teamarp.com)
Kor-Ingells, 5.9, 11/18/95, 11/5/05
North Chimney, 5.9, 12/2/95
Did this route for my second time and found it somewhat enjoyable. I did the second pitch completely different than my first time up it, so I changed the page to hopefully avoid any kind of confussion. The first and last bolts were kind of sketchy. The first bolt (protecting the first crux 3/8") sticks out almost an inch. I tightend up the third (1/4) bolt with my fingers before commiting to the crux (probably not making any difference other than a psychological one). It was a beautiful day, but there were 5 groups in line behind us. People should dare to get on the more obscure routes rather than waste a day waiting to do a moderately enjoyable "classic".