nice to be in tuolumne with no touristos in sight
anywhere!! parked at boundary near dana hiked
in 8 miles in to camp.....hit
nasty weather with one pitch to go.. had to
rap down the backside..very wet and slippery. turned
out to be a way longer day than expected
This was my first long roped climb, and I returned a few years later and led it. The summit of Cathedral is certainly one of the most special places on the planet, particularly if you have it to yourself (and your partner....).
After Saturday on the domes, a late breakfast at tioga pass cabins, a less than direct approach, and on the wall at 3. A beautiful day capped by sunset on the summit, descent by headlamp, and dinner at the road. What could be more pleasant?
This was the first of three on our way from Tuolmne Meadows to the valley. It was very enjoyable, I would love to go back.
Started from the trailhead at 4:30 in the morning and were the first on the route having passed many climbers camping at Budd Lake and at least one party camping at the base. I started at the wrong place and ended up on some 5.9 rock, but eventually we found ourselves on route and 2 hours later were standing on the summit. We scrambled down the opposite side and ended up linking up with the Cathedral Lakes Trail and were back at the car well before lunch.
Fun route, one of my first multipitch climbs in Yosemite. We also did Eichorn Pinnacle via the North face (traverse and up?) while we up there. Repeated it sans Eichorn two years later. Indeed worth a yearly repeat
A yearly must.
Got up early to be first in line -- boy was the buttress crowded on the way down.
An awesome climb in a nasty weather (strong wind, cold temperature, a little bit of snow and hail). On the approach we saw about 10 people who'd turned around because of the weather. Since turning around is not in Pavel's dictionary we did climb. In spite of cold we enjoyed the climb a lot. We saw only 2 other guys on the route.
Nasty weather equaled no people (except for two other guys) = great climb on a beautiful peak. As always, enjoyable experience climbing with Kris.
Penelope May and I climbed the Original Line on the SE Buttress on September 2nd, 2004. Our British friends Pat and Martin were the only other people on the buttress that day. We followed Peter Croft's "The Good, The Great and The Awesome" topo which in my opinion is the only Guidebook that shows the correct line on the buttress. I know, there are many variations to the original line and most of the topos show them, but in my mind, there is only one line on the SE Buttress and that's the 1945 line by Chuck Wilts and Spencer Austin. Everything else are just variations to avoid crowds and they unfortunately also avoid the best climbing. So if you really want to do this great route, follow the Croft's Guidebook. The route has at least three good and fairly sustained 5.7 pitches of steep face climbing and fair share of enjoyable crack climbing as well. Do it in mid week to avoid the crowds and climb the original route, really the only route there ever was on the SE Buttress.
Great route, too many people. There were 6-7 groups on the face at once and human feces in a crack prior to the first belay. Yuck.
Started at 7:30am from the Cathedral Lakes parking lot with awagher. We topped out at 9:30am via the Mountaineers Route. Went onto Eichorn Pinnacle and then Echo Ridge/Cockscomb/Unicorn loop.
Route Climbed: SE Buttress
Date Climbed: September 5, 2004
Climbed the SE Buttress with Steven Sauter. We had fantastic weather. Not a single cloud in the deep, blue sky of Tuolumne. We pretty much followed the classic route (route "A" on SuperTopo). Steve led the first pitch to the "half-alive" pine tree. I led the 2nd pitch. Steve led about 1/2 of the 3rd pitch and set belay on the alcove. I ask him why he didn't continue further and he said the altitude was tired him down. So, I led the rest of the pitches to the summit (4 pitches from alcove to summit). I did not find the chimney pitch to be that difficult. Instead, the crux for me was the 5.6 crack about 20 feet below the summit (just before topping out on the class 4 summit blocks). Best views so far from any summit I've been on. Because several parties bottle necked just before the chimney (crowded day on the SE Buttress), we had to wait in line. I topped out at 4:45pm. I belayed Steve up and we both enjoyed the summit by 5:15pm. Then, we downclimbed the 15-foot class 4 crack and descended via the Mountaineers Route. All in all, beautiful views from this route but way too crowded with other climbing parties.
There were several groups ahead of us on the rock when we got there so we climbed around them on some faces. It got really cold and windy two pitches from the summit so we hurried up and hiked down the back. A very nice, easy climb, beautiful views, and a satisfying day. It would probably be best to do it late in the day or in the middle of the week, though!
We mixed and matched a route just west of the classic SE Buttress. Some nice lines @ 5.5 - 5.7. 3 man team, 5.5 pitches on a 60M rope. Fun.
This route is way crowded! The descent is kind of weird, we went all the way left to the notch with Eichorn, and then back across.
I noticed someone removed the rappel anchor from the summit.
Fun climb. Now to go back and do the SE Buttress.
Simul climbed much of lower butress toping out a little over a 2 hours. Clear skiis and nice people on the route.