This route is way crowded! The descent is kind of weird, we went all the way left to the notch with Eichorn, and then back across.
I noticed someone removed the rappel anchor from the summit.
Fun climb. Now to go back and do the SE Buttress.
Simul climbed much of lower butress toping out a little over a 2 hours. Clear skiis and nice people on the route.
This time roped up with SPer Matthew Holliman.
Solo from the toe of the buttress to the summit in 12:52. My 40th time on this route.
Nice route, much easier than anticipated. To spice things up a bit Etsuko and I climbed the 5.7 variation to the right of the Chimney. Fun! However, think again if you want to climb this route on a warm sunny summer weekend day. Aside from us there were probably 20 people on the route. Even though there are variations, we all bottlenecked below the summit and ended up waiting for hours before we could top out. Nevertheless, it was enjoyable and incredibly serene. We climbed the route in 5 pitches (stretched first two pitches to 210' each), with me leading pitches #1 (5.5-5.6), #3 (5.7 variation) and #4 (5.5?); and Etsuko leading #2 (5.6) and #5 (to the summit, 5.6)
I lost one of my yellow Aliens somewhere on the route (whoever finds it, ENJOY), and found a #2 Camalot. Go figure :)
Great day of climbing the Southeast Buttress with Alberto Alesina; we did it in 6 pitches, leading 3 each. The descent required hiking all the way to the base of Eichorn due to snow in the bowl below the summit. One other party climbing at the same time and same speed as us (3 forest service employees) and 2 parties behind us.
This was a warmup for our unsuccessful attempt on the Fishhook Arete of Mount Russell.
First time for me (a novice) with a bunch of very experienced climbers. Was good fun.
Really fun climb!! That is unless you were the pair of dunses that starteed up late and disregarded the storm that was brewing and ended up dumping on them while on route!! It was pretty cool to straddle the summit! I almost went flying while I was leading the pitch through the chimny when a rescue choper came out of nowhere at our same elevation and seemed as though it was 75 feet away!! Good times with by boy CD!!
Did this with Howard Sebold. Tooks the 5.7 line. Wonderful aestheic climb. Got spooked off the summit by building clouds. Got lapped on the descent by a soloist, Steve Seats. He climbinged the thing in 20 minutes compared to our 4 hours.
(solo ascent) Fun,Great view.
I remember being the only party on the peak on a perfect summer Saturday....
Incredible summit trip with approaching thunderstorm on '86 trip. The SE Buttress rt. was very enjoyable with old friends Hugh and Dan Sakols.
I was thinking of doing the SE face, but there were already 4 climbing teams starting when we arrived, so we went for the mountaineers route. We tried to climb the north face, without much luck. Instead we decended to climb the mountaineers route, a fine time for all.
Arrived at the base of Cathedral @ 10:50 AM....only 4 parties above. Cranked up SE Butt. in 35 minutes. Had a 45-minute lunch on the summit with not a soul topping out. Gorgeous weather. Some gumby left two new ropes in between the saddle of Cathedral and Eichorn. Split one with Mike Shaffer (YMG), who was guiding a client. Guess that's the price you pay for being in a hurry (no reason to: weather was great, no reported accidents etc). Must have money to throw around.......
Beautiful day. The chimney is great. Fun climb.
Climbed this one a couple of times. The first time was back on Oct 18, '03 via the west face with Dave, Rich, and Mike... it's an awesome peak, although Eichorn Pinnacle steals the show on this approach. I immediately put that on my to-do list.
Came back a few months later (Jun 18, '04) to climb the SE Buttress with Sam, probably just my second or third multi-pitch climb ever (he led everything)... there were four or five parties on the route even that day. Fun climb! We ran out of time for Eichorn Pinnacle.
Climbed west face route with SP'ers David Kiene and Matthew Holliman. A fun scramble. We roped up for the last 15 foot bit to the summit. My first "roped climb". Perfect weather. Fall in Tuolumne is tough to beat.
Pictures and trip report here
It sure beats a day at work! What a great route. The chimney, especially, was a lot of fun. The view of the moonrise over Unicorn from the summit at sunset is unforgettable.
Etsuko and I had a nice "alpine start" at 11:15am from the Cathedral Lakes trailhead. We headed up the Budd Creek trail w/o any route topo hoping for a fun adventure. After watching a traffic jam on the SE Buttress route, we tried to solo the NE face but got on the terrain that we did not feel like climbing (and especially downclimbing) w/o any gear. Hence, we walked around the peak towards Mountaineers Route and solo'ed it instead. Fun route, especially if you stay ~100' to the left of the notch between Cathedral & Eichorn (if you are looking at them from the North) and try some Class 4 face climbing!! On/near the summit block we've met two SP-ers: Barry Beck and Bob Pickering. They both climbed the SE Buttress route and were not in the same group!
Beautiful day and incredible peak! We'll be back to finish this NE face soon...