It was a long day. We started from morain camp at 16,860 in the dark and finished in the dark 15hrs. latter
Very enjoyable and interesting route.
Summited with my Peruvian guide, Aldo on a gloriously clear and calm morning just after sunrise with the moon just above the summit. 65-70 degree 100 meter pitch above the bergschrund The panarama of the Cordillera Blanca was fantastic. Five minutes after we summited, Brad Johnson (author of Classic Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca) summited with 2 clients. Spent an enjoyable 20 minutes on top.
Our old guidebook said, "Allow 3 days to return to the road." We packed enough food for 4 days, and it took us 7. Fortunately, we greatly overestimated how much fuel we would need, and this was a life saver. The NW ridge involved lots of scary, loose, honeycombed snow. I thought I was going to die in a few places, but the position and exposure are absolutely spectacular!
Trip Report and more photos here:
great climb with perfect view...did some variant and climed airy ridge to avoid avalanche-danger in upper section
david bruder&niv scott
Tom Marron and I climbed this peak from our base camp near the Yanganuca Lakes in near perfect weather. For the tragic aspects of this climb see the trip report.