Classic Southeast Route

Classic Southeast Route

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 37.81670°N / 35.16670°E
Additional Information Route Type: Scramble
Additional Information Time Required: A long day
Additional Information Difficulty: II or III
Sign the Climber's Log


Sokulupinar camp area(alt: ~ 2000m) is the furthest point that vehicles can approach depending on the season. Otherwise, Demirkazik village mountain house(alt: ~1600m) can be the start point.

Route Description

BASIC SUMMARY BELOW! (Anyone who will attempt this route has to either at least read from the books available and carry a detailed map, or take a local guide.)

This is the standard and easiest route to the summit of Demirkazik, though involving some difficulties. At late summer to early autumn, snow & ice disappears from the most of the route, allowing a relatively easier climb; while at other seasons this climb is a serious technical activity.

If it will be the first time climbing Demirkazik, starting with this route is strictly advised before trying the other significantly harder alternatives.

Here are some rough guidelines for this route:

-Start from Sokulupinar camp area, if possible,
-Enter the Narpuz valley by the rocky Kayacik gorge,
-Follow the main valley,
-Pass the waterfall from its right side,
-Follow the rest of the valley until the start of Kizilkum scree ascend,
-Follow the scree path on the face to the left of the valley,
-Reach the saddle point,
-Turn left from the point and walk on the ridge,
-Follow the track on the rock face, while the ridge gets steeper,
-Pass a couple of critical points by scrambling, until to the summit.

The same route must be followed on the return.

Essential Gear

Summer: Technical equipment is rarely necessary. The boots must be strong for the scree and the sole must be frictious enough for the safety on the plain rock surfaces. At late summer, water is limited except for a few drinkable sources.

Winter: It is certainly a matter of a technical winter climb with a necessity of crampons, ice axe and other equipment for safety. The total duration is longer and an additional camp or bivuak may be needed. As nights can be very cold, camping equipment must be convenient for heavy winter conditions. Danger of avalanche must be kept in mind at spring time.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-3 of 3

nurettin - Jun 24, 2004 4:56 am - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

The last section has rock climbing about II, III UIAA with some 45'. It doesn't seem so hard but the line goes very close to the awesome space of East Wall. If go away from the line you fall into a deep trouble on the tricky limestone slabs.

We've seen some moderate climbers in trouble waiting for help here. Mostly climbers can't realize where they are going. You feel a great space and very hard to climb down.

A guide or someone who knows the route is strongly recommended. Otherwise I just can say;


lada - Aug 22, 2005 4:18 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

I think the slabs are not so difficult and there is not a frightening exposition of east wall, so we climbed there. I'm not a good mountain climber (I returned from the half of Direktas - it's a II), but Demirkazik was a funy friction climb without any problem for me.


nurettin - Aug 31, 2005 2:49 am - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

Actually we need to talk for the general. May be you have turned back from Direktas and I have climbed free solo too many technical routes in Aladaglar.

Even in these conditions I can not say it is so comfy for everyone to climb it. I think descending can be more tricky than climbing that part.

Viewing: 1-3 of 3