Approach
Went up and over Burgundy Col, dropped down quite a bit on the back side, and traversed skiier's left for a while to the base of the climb.
Conditions
The snow was friendly. We glissaded the big drop just over Burgundy Col. Just brought axes, didn't need crampons.
The Route
Super fun! I'd definitely recommend doing it, and will definitely go back and repeat it at some point. The first pitch is great! I didn't find it to be much more difficult than other parts of the route, but I do personally prefer a crack of any size to a delicate traverse.
Route Finding
Route finding was pretty straightforward as long as you follow the beta. We thought we might have been off-route a couple times on the last 500ft of simul-climbing, but realized we were on-track the whole time when we hit the summit.
Gear
The only spot where a #4 was truly useful was the swooping crack on pitch 7. Just bring one #4.
Descent
We descended the west side, dropping some and then traversing over to Burgundy Col, back to Bench Camp. We never felt like we were on an obvious climber's trail.
samtugwell - Jul 16, 2013 2:21 am - Voted 8/10
CoolGood report, great photos, enjoyed reading that thanks :)
Monster5 - Jul 16, 2013 9:02 pm - Hasn't voted
Gotta admitYour TRs are among the finest SP has to offer. Looks like a fun route.
anita - Jul 16, 2013 9:07 pm - Voted 10/10
aweomseas usual
lcarreau - Jul 16, 2013 10:31 pm - Voted 10/10
Usual-omseas awesome ... :-)
Jfaub - Jul 19, 2013 5:54 pm - Voted 10/10
Great Report!Looks like a great route! Thanks for posting.
Cheers,
Joel
dsoike - Jun 10, 2015 10:43 am - Hasn't voted
Trip Report (6/6/2015)Approach
Went up and over Burgundy Col, dropped down quite a bit on the back side, and traversed skiier's left for a while to the base of the climb.
Conditions
The snow was friendly. We glissaded the big drop just over Burgundy Col. Just brought axes, didn't need crampons.
The Route
Super fun! I'd definitely recommend doing it, and will definitely go back and repeat it at some point. The first pitch is great! I didn't find it to be much more difficult than other parts of the route, but I do personally prefer a crack of any size to a delicate traverse.
Route Finding
Route finding was pretty straightforward as long as you follow the beta. We thought we might have been off-route a couple times on the last 500ft of simul-climbing, but realized we were on-track the whole time when we hit the summit.
Gear
The only spot where a #4 was truly useful was the swooping crack on pitch 7. Just bring one #4.
Descent
We descended the west side, dropping some and then traversing over to Burgundy Col, back to Bench Camp. We never felt like we were on an obvious climber's trail.