Climbers on the summit block...

Climbers on the summit block chimney. Great pro on the right side. October 2002


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Diggler - Jul 20, 2004 1:00 pm - Voted 10/10

Looks like thrilling exposure!

Is this rock like most of the "rock" found on the Cascade volcanoes, or does it stay put when you pull on it? What would you rate this? Do many free-solo it? Cool looking summit!


cluck - Jul 20, 2004 3:35 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Looks like thrilling exposure!

On this pitch, the rock is actually pretty good. Lots of fun chicken heads that didn't pop off when we climbed. Surprising because everything before this point was garbage. Totally portable hand and foot placements all the way up the ridge.

This pitch would be easy to solo, but a fall could be fatal as the slope below the climb falls straight away.

Above the anchor in this picture, we climbed un-roped to the summit. Summit area is very small, actually 2 little sub-summits separated by about 10-15'. The 1st one you come to is large enough for 2 people to sit. The 2nd and higher summit (higher by about 1') is at the other side. To get there, we kind of dropped off the knife-edged ridge, using the top of the ridge for hand holds and had plenty of good places for the feet (I swear the rock is so soft that the footholds are a result of people kicking steps in the rock). From the highest point, major exposure on all sides. Def . a place that gets you attention. Wouldn't want to be there in high winds or during an earthquake... that is for sure.

If I did it again, I would think about staying on a rope to the top, rather than soloing above the anchor.

A photo showing the summit A taken from true summit B is here:


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