Clyde Variation Climber's Log

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pBerg - Aug 9, 2020 9:08 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2020

clyde variation on the ascent; standard SE glacier on the descent  Sucess!

Climbed on Sun Aug 2 2020 in a average-to-below-average snow year. We ascended the Clyde Variation of the southeast glacier route, using the Owens Chute above the three-toe buttress. I actually preferred this route to the SE glacier so late in the season because it had more steady snow climbing than the traditional SE glacier route. The crux was a short, 45deg, and exposed snow traverse between the gendarme at 11,700ft and the glacier proper. Had the whole mountain to ourselves on a gorgeous day. Really fun climb.


cjrandall - Aug 13, 2009 7:40 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2009

"Across a snowy gap"  Sucess!

Well, I was successful in reaching the col, but never actually made it to the summit of Ritter. When we reached the col, the conditions were extremely treacherous. My partner suggested we downclimb as close to the lower pinnacle as possible, staying on rock until we reached the small tongue of snow at the bottom, I thought we could cross the bulletproof glacial ice gingerly.

Should have listened to my partner, as I tried to cross the "snowy gap" the snow released its tentative grip on the slick ice below and I fell 50 feet into the morainal rock next to the lower pinnacle injuring my right foot. Fortunately, no other damage done, but was scary enough to turn us around and head down.

We looped down around the lower pinnacle and went out the "standard" SE glacier route, following the bootprints of another (more experienced!) climber.

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