I've been wondering if Pikes Peak was a good one to try in winter. Thanks for the info!
Mountain Jim - Sep 18, 2007 10:49 am - Hasn't voted
Longs Peak
Good work sharing some good information. Regarding Longs Peak, having climbed it 93 times, and in all 12 months of the year, I think climbing the West Face via The Trough from Glacier Gorge is probably going to be the shortest and safest route on the peak ... even though it's a grunt. If the weather moves in it's fairly easy to get back down to timberline with a glissade ... but remember The Trough gully ends in a cliff, so you have to move one gully to the north near the bottom.
Thanks, again, for the good work on this page ... Peace, Jim
Thanks ... looks good. Since The Trough is on the windward side of the mountain it's usually to wind packed or wind scoured to pose much of an avalanche treat. Of course, there are exceptions, like right after a wet spring snow storm.
Peace, Jim
very usefull page. Makes climbers make good and safer choices...
Considering that my first Peak in USA, will probably take place this november ;-)), very probably I'll choose a Colorado 14'er,this page is being very nice for me!
Been perusing your list here for some time, Scott. Great page buddy. Definitely needed here on SP with all the increased attention these peaks are getting of late.
Thanks for putting this together.
Cheers!
---Enjoy your 19er! ;o)
It appears this list has been cleaned up a bit the past couple years, but some thoughts:
-Wilson Peak can be done with no avalanche hazard via the NW Ridge (class 3-4, loose, exposed). Avoiding avalanche hazard on the approach requires crossing private property though.
-Kelso Ridge is becoming quite popular with winter ascents every reasonable weekend.
-North Massive is a traditional winter 14er. It can be combined with Massive as a loop from the Fish Hatchery.
-The standard route on North Maroon has become the NW Ridge via the Snowmass approach. One short section of reasonable avy hazard to gain the ridge near the Gunsight. Class 3-4, ridge or bypass right/west.
-Pyramid NW Ridge: 30 m plenty to rap the 4th class crux. There are a few bowls along the ridge that can slide (small, but enough to send you over a cliff), so best to do this route only after a week or two of sun. I thought the route-finding was pretty basic. Stay proper or bypass R/W as necessary.
-Recently, out and backing El Diente via Mt. Wilson's N couly in good conditions has been popular.
-Little Bear: a partner and I ascended the NW Face and descended the Hourglass one winter. NW Face was a sugary slog with one short roped step down low. Hourglass was incredibly cruiser, but there is avy hazard on the N couly to gain the ridge and along the W Ridge heading to the Hourglass.
-Snowmass: the W Face route follows a small rib in winter. The rib is steep class 2, with perhaps a couple moves of third bypassing west to topout. Agreed it isn't difficult, but several avy spots to cross on the low approach.
-Crestone Needle is easier than the Peak in winter. In good conditions, the narrow S couloir is a spring-like snowclimb while the Peak can be a deep, hazardous slog. Given this, I thought doing the Needle to Peak traverse was easier than doing the Peak alone.
-Democrat N Ridge is a good winter climb a step up from Kelso. Some avy hazard to gain the ridge, but normally wind-blown. Some may want a short rope to descend into the early notch.
Haliku - Sep 16, 2007 10:12 pm - Voted 10/10
Great idea!A nice collection of beta. Hopefully I can test some of it this winter. Cheers!
ouray19 - Sep 16, 2007 11:22 pm - Voted 10/10
Thanks!I've been wondering if Pikes Peak was a good one to try in winter. Thanks for the info!
Mountain Jim - Sep 18, 2007 10:49 am - Hasn't voted
Longs PeakGood work sharing some good information. Regarding Longs Peak, having climbed it 93 times, and in all 12 months of the year, I think climbing the West Face via The Trough from Glacier Gorge is probably going to be the shortest and safest route on the peak ... even though it's a grunt. If the weather moves in it's fairly easy to get back down to timberline with a glissade ... but remember The Trough gully ends in a cliff, so you have to move one gully to the north near the bottom.
Thanks, again, for the good work on this page ... Peace, Jim
Scott - Sep 18, 2007 5:24 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Longs PeakI added some of your info. Check it out. Thanks. How is avy danger is the Trough?
Mountain Jim - Sep 18, 2007 6:09 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Longs PeakThanks ... looks good. Since The Trough is on the windward side of the mountain it's usually to wind packed or wind scoured to pose much of an avalanche treat. Of course, there are exceptions, like right after a wet spring snow storm.
Peace, Jim
Dan Leonhard - Sep 26, 2007 9:19 pm - Voted 10/10
a great resourcethanks Scott!
KathyW - Oct 1, 2007 8:27 am - Voted 10/10
ThanksJust what I was looking for - thanks!
Igor Czs - Nov 6, 2007 10:49 am - Hasn't voted
Great Work!very usefull page. Makes climbers make good and safer choices...
Considering that my first Peak in USA, will probably take place this november ;-)), very probably I'll choose a Colorado 14'er,this page is being very nice for me!
Cheers
igorCZS
Kiefer - Dec 6, 2012 4:45 pm - Voted 10/10
Great idea!!Been perusing your list here for some time, Scott. Great page buddy. Definitely needed here on SP with all the increased attention these peaks are getting of late.
Thanks for putting this together.
Cheers!
---Enjoy your 19er! ;o)
Monster5 - Feb 6, 2017 5:19 pm - Hasn't voted
SuggestionsIt appears this list has been cleaned up a bit the past couple years, but some thoughts:
-Wilson Peak can be done with no avalanche hazard via the NW Ridge (class 3-4, loose, exposed). Avoiding avalanche hazard on the approach requires crossing private property though.
-Kelso Ridge is becoming quite popular with winter ascents every reasonable weekend.
-North Massive is a traditional winter 14er. It can be combined with Massive as a loop from the Fish Hatchery.
-The standard route on North Maroon has become the NW Ridge via the Snowmass approach. One short section of reasonable avy hazard to gain the ridge near the Gunsight. Class 3-4, ridge or bypass right/west.
-Pyramid NW Ridge: 30 m plenty to rap the 4th class crux. There are a few bowls along the ridge that can slide (small, but enough to send you over a cliff), so best to do this route only after a week or two of sun. I thought the route-finding was pretty basic. Stay proper or bypass R/W as necessary.
-Recently, out and backing El Diente via Mt. Wilson's N couly in good conditions has been popular.
-Little Bear: a partner and I ascended the NW Face and descended the Hourglass one winter. NW Face was a sugary slog with one short roped step down low. Hourglass was incredibly cruiser, but there is avy hazard on the N couly to gain the ridge and along the W Ridge heading to the Hourglass.
-Snowmass: the W Face route follows a small rib in winter. The rib is steep class 2, with perhaps a couple moves of third bypassing west to topout. Agreed it isn't difficult, but several avy spots to cross on the low approach.
-Crestone Needle is easier than the Peak in winter. In good conditions, the narrow S couloir is a spring-like snowclimb while the Peak can be a deep, hazardous slog. Given this, I thought doing the Needle to Peak traverse was easier than doing the Peak alone.
-Democrat N Ridge is a good winter climb a step up from Kelso. Some avy hazard to gain the ridge, but normally wind-blown. Some may want a short rope to descend into the early notch.