Common protection

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Common protection

Common protection

They call this "hodiny" in czech, and this is pretty common here. Some are tiny, and I am not sure if it would hold a heavy fall... Still on the tower Opiči at Křižak. I received an e-mail regarding this photo from a friend of mine, who is an experienced climber in Adršpach, and was told that this placement is not correct. The loop/webbing should be going through the fattest part of the rock, and it would be better not to tie it around, but place a quick draw through both ends.
Liba Kopeckova
on Jul 6, 2010 12:15 pm
Image Type(s): Rock Climbing
Image ID: 635435

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yatsek

yatsek - Jul 7, 2010 5:20 am - Voted 10/10

Why on earth

"hodiny"?

Liba Kopeckova

Liba Kopeckova - Jul 7, 2010 6:46 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Why on earth

no clue Jacek, and do not want to translate it into "clock" since it does not make much sense to me...

kasual321 - Jul 12, 2010 9:30 am - Hasn't voted

It's probably better this way

Because instead of swiveling around the post, potentially grinding off sandstone and webbing, it is snug around it. It may lose a little bit of strength, but the sling still maintains sufficient strength for catching falls. This method also extends your sling further out for lower rope drag.

There's nothing wrong with looping it and putting the biner in both ends, except for the whole grinding of stone and reducing the length.

Liba Kopeckova

Liba Kopeckova - Jul 13, 2010 10:23 am - Hasn't voted

Re: It's probably better this way

Thank you for your input... I think the whole idea of this area is not to fall at all... the sandstone was very soft.

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