voster - Sep 20, 2010 3:33 pm - Voted 7/10

Route can generally be done all year long. Check snow conditions when doing this in summertime and expect it to take considerably longer requiring more belays.
The given time is for experienced and well acclimatised parties. Though being easy to escape by abseils an inexperienced party can spend an epic time in there wich is inherently dangerous due to the high altitude and threat of serac falls. Good hydration, stable weather forecast and a well frozen night are essential.
Routefinding is easy. Be prepared for getting home in a white-out over the glacier though whith little orientation marks and a some crevasse zones when you loose your path.
50m double rope will get you back across the bergschrund at the lowest tip of the rock band forming the couloir. This part is thick ice so keep left on the way to the couloir and to the right way down.