Lip Before Clip - 35’- 5.10/ Move over to the next feature which looks suspiciously like the “cookie monster”. I am not sure which is which here between Lip Before Clip and Cedar Variation, but they are both basically the same in difficulty and use the same finish which represents the crux move anyway. Assuming Lip Before Clip if the left route, it only has four bolts, not five (as per the Todd’s guide book) to a nasty little anchor that has a little bit of everything going on. I would use a long runner, equalized with a figure 8, to get your rope over the rough overhang for top rope purposes. These routes are both uneventful, but the feature is cool looking with shady belay spots. The more difficult move is past the last bolt, which both routes use and then real positive stuff to get you through the overhang by turning it to the right.
Sprocket Rocks, West Cedar Crags, May, 2007
