Followed Dirk's lead, good diversion on a nice winter day
Went there for the first time this weekend, spent a couple hours getting oriented, worked on one route(Dinkum). Look forward to coming back!
Been here a few times. Led Dinkum Crack (x3), test piece (x2), another 5.7 (the pod?) to the right of Dinkum, and TRd unconquerable, 10c (adhesion?) to the right of testpiece, and a lot more. Nice place, short climbs.
Instructed rock climbing here for REI many times between 2006 and 2009. Fun place to climb when the weather is temperate, but don't go there in the summer!
Went to the Gorge today to show my wife how to rappel, it was fun a great fathers day. the real reason I am writing this is to share that I saw a white goat on the Gutenberger Wall, no kidding. I don't have pictures but pointed it out to others as I couldn't believe what I was seeing. There is a lot of lichen/dirt to the left of the wall where the goat was standing for sometime. I looked back later to find it had gone elsewhere, not in the river quite the site though
TR'd Dinkum Crack cleanly this time, warmed up on Test Piece, Adhesion (5.10a) and Live and Learn (5.8), plus a few others.
Good times with friends. Got lucky with the weather, overcast and cool but not cold. Sky opened up and poured after we started back in the cars ..
Routes climbed: Gutenburger Wall, Dinkum Crack
Date climbed: 19-Nov-2005
Followed K. Chaltikian up a 5.9 route (Dihedral Bypass / Lichen Us I think) of the Gutenberger Wall in about 3.5 pitches.
First pitch was tricky and strenuous. From the first belay KC decided to toprope the Dihedral Direct (5.10b) start and found it harsh but doable. Second pitch pretty straightforward jugs and friction. Third pitch steeper friction, probably closer to 5.8-5.9 at the crux. Last pitch pretty easy fifth, which I led, clipping a piton. Descent via walkoff.
Belayed KC as he led Dinkum Crack, followed by me embarrassing myself on it again, but I did thrash my way to the top with only three hangs or so. Nice warm, clear weather.
Stopped by Pyramid Peak Outfitters in Placerville afterwards to get the revised guidebook. Apparently three double-rope raps are needed to avoid the brushy walkoff from the top of the Gutenberger Wall.
Route Climbed: Test Piece, Dinkum Crack, Gutenberger Wall, etc.
Date Climbed: Nov. 12-13, 2005
Climbed with Mike.
Saturday TR'd Test Piece a couple of times, and finally Dinkum Crack, which I found frustrating on the thinnest finger cracks.
Sunday followed Mike up the Gutenberger Wall on the standard route (5.7), about 4 pitches worth. First pitch was tough, with a hand traverse and a nasty lip to get over - we ended up traversing right, and I'm not really sure we were on route. Second pitch was fairly easy. Third pitch felt more sustained, and definitely fun - lots of jamming. Bootied a nut. Final pitch was easy fifth.
Descended via walk off down a gully then slabs which were thankfully dry. Someone had slung some not particularly strong-looking ropes down the slabs which were kind of useful for balance.
Climbed Dinkum, Popcorn, Test Piece, Unconquerable, Planned Obsolescence, and a few others on TR. Weather was great in the morning shade. Fun place.
TRd Test Piece & other routes around that general area, soloed one of the easier lie-backs & some chimneys. Great day climbing with Dave & Mike- clear skies & decidedly non-November temp's! winetasting afterwards was nice too.
Did the first pitch of Gutenberger with Stephany- fun although a little mungy, & traverse caused severe rope drag. Finally red-pointed Dinkum's, which felt great!
Watch where you put your hands - there was a snake hanging out on Candy Corn. Other than that this place is awesome - the river is nice too.....
I have only climbed here once, but a very interesting area with some great one pitch crack climbs. Also relatively close to the Bay and Sacramento areas, which makes it a good destination for one day outings.
Many fun times here at the local crags!