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andre hangaard

andre hangaard - Nov 23, 2009 3:58 am - Voted 10/10

Good info!

Thanks for the rates and the transport costs!!

Has anyone experience with camping further up the glacier at around 5.300-5.400 meters? /cheers, André

Boriss Andean

Boriss Andean - Nov 23, 2009 3:53 pm - Hasn't voted

Camping above the glacier.

I'm so glad the info helped. Yes, sometimes climbers have spent the night above the glacier, on the summit and even in the internal crater rim, crazy adventure :)

Thanks for the comment andre!

andre hangaard

andre hangaard - Nov 24, 2009 3:06 am - Voted 10/10

Re: Camping above the glacier.

In May 2004 I reached to 5.600m but was forced to turn around due bad weather. Thinking of returning Jan/Feb 2010 and try to make a high camp up at 5.600m for acclimatization and to get an easy summitday! I guess Jan/Fen is less windy than May, right? salud. André

Boriss Andean

Boriss Andean - Nov 26, 2009 1:52 pm - Hasn't voted

Jan/feb 2010.

Well, actually we all are climbing up by the normal route now, which has more resting spots and is very scenic than the one used in 2004. I don't think you'll have any problems if you start from the refuge.

There´s a huge large crevasse now at 5,600 m (just 100 meters below Yanasacha). I'm pretty sure you'll make it if you start from the refuge again.

The route you climbed back in 2004 was by "La Rompecorazones" (heartbreaker slope) which was very steep and reduced the chances of reaching the summit.

Best climbing season in Ecuador are the months within November and February.. way less windy than the summer months. see you around Andre!

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