Curt Fry attempts

Curt Fry attempts "Crack Attack" 35 feet at Mount Scott. This picture by J.M. Stuberg was the single illustration for the "Summit" March April 1986 issue(vol 32 #2) for an article by Kent Katon, Curt Fry and Stuberg on the Mount Scott. K. Katon worked on Autobahn and Vice Grips at Chandler Park

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Alan Ellis

Alan Ellis - Sep 19, 2003 9:39 pm - Hasn't voted

Where....

....is "Crack Attack" on Mt. Scott and what it is rated. Thanks.



Alan

desainme

desainme - Sep 20, 2003 9:42 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Where....

Quoting from the article: "From the southwest side's roadside start, aproximately 2/10 of a mile up from the fork in the road, is an obvious boulder highway heading north up the talus to the climbing area which lies about 2/3 of the distance to the summit [Mt Scott]. It is here that the rock faces flow steeply upward and all along the southern faces the rock is noticeabley sectioned, and one can easily find the distinct climbing sub-divisions. After some fairly easy rock scrambling, the talus highway ends on Scott's southwest face and dumps you at the first area named Alice's House, which has its climbing start behind the prominent extended finger of rock pointing to the southwest. First up in a 40 foot high inset, comes Braindamage, which at 5.9+ is a perfect vertical hand crack. This fist crack, just made for jamming is topped by a flat slab overhang which after bumbping one's head, is bypassed easlly to the left. Like most of the climbs in this area, the fun is over too quickly, as most of the routes are short, though usually vertical on fine rock. Ten feet to the right is the notorious Popeye, 5.11+, again only runs up for 40 feet; its namesake is derived from a certain forearm affliction encountered by all on the way to the top. An unreal 95 degree wall, the holds are fair to good until the halfway point., where a 15 foot crux is enjoyed. Comprised of an arching fingertip crack, it requires brute strength to accomplish, while bing difficult to protect the higher one goes. As the crack about dissapearsat the top, be prepared to talk to yourself and work hard over its mantle-type finish. Quite good sport, this one. Next to it, only a few feet away is the yet unfinished Crack Attack. A parallel-slded 6 inch to 8 inch separation of rock for its short but extremely hard 35 foot length, it so far has said a definite "no" to all attempts. consistently and nonchalantly tossing everyone back to terrafirma. Be sure to bring a couple of your favorite #8 friends for this one, plus practice on side-by-side fist jamming and levering" Maybe a couple of big bros?













desainme

desainme - Sep 20, 2003 9:55 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Where....

Here is a terraserver address of the photo behind the map. It does show a "talus stream" 1//5 mile east of a road fork.



http://terraserver-usa.com/image.aspx?t=1&s=10&x=2712&y=19220&z=14&w=2



Talus



the next photo north shows some cliffs I think.

schmid_th

schmid_th - Nov 8, 2006 2:31 pm - Voted 10/10

Great action shot!

Seems not so easy this route!
Nice shot!

Thomas

nurettin

nurettin - Nov 20, 2006 8:02 am - Voted 10/10

I love...

...real climbing!

bongsunkee

bongsunkee - Aug 14, 2007 12:15 pm - Voted 10/10

fantastic!

nice shot, desainme.
cheers

desainme

desainme - Aug 14, 2007 5:50 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: fantastic!

Glad you enjoyed it!

Marcsoltan

Marcsoltan - Sep 19, 2008 6:07 pm - Voted 10/10

I remember this photo.

I used to have a pair of EBs. I did my first 5.9 "Center Route of Moby Dick" in Yosemite, as soon as I bought my EBs.

Mark Doiron

Mark Doiron - Oct 20, 2008 8:48 am - Voted 10/10

This is Great!

I'm going to find a place for this image on the Wichita Mountains page--thanks for a great climbing action shot! --mark d.

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