Found a new fear of heights and exposure! Just a new barrier to break down. Long day with a group of 4 and one rope. About 11h15m with some slower rope work and me with a challenging GI issue in the morning. A great challenge, we were all beat. The rappel was SUPER FUN.
Climbed standard route with Tom Pierce, Jon Frohlich, Jonathan Deffenbaugh. Had a great time. Team of 5 and team of 2 ahead of us, busy day on the mountain. Perfect weather and scenery.
Went up to a large ledge at the base of the steep south face then traversed it right and climbed a large loose gully directly to the summit block. Easy climb but the loose rock everywhere was some of the worst Id ever been on. Perhaps most people take the long way around via the east ridge?
So, I hear there's a 5.3 route on this peak...well, we weren't on it! Our route included a dihedral above the rap tunnel and some funky off-width trying to push you backward off the mountain. Oh well, I guess that's why we over train (off-route happens...), but I was good and tired at the end of this day!!!
We wound up climbing a 4th class route just to the west of the standard route. We didn't use a rope but we did rappel off since it looked fun. 5.5 hours up 3.5 down.
Fun rappel through the hole in the rock, landed on snow underneath.
A beautiful September climb of Dallas Peak. Weather was fantastic allowing us to take our time - which helped with the route finding. A long approach for a one pitch 5.3!
Coming down the scree, that was easily the worst part of the day.
We started at 5:30am and took the short cut route by the Mill Creek waterfall (that is an amazing waterfall by the way). We got lost a few times, but if you just aim for the waterfall and then traverse the the bottom of the cliff bands right you will eventually run into the ramp that takes you above the cliff. The part from the Sneffels Highline Trail to the 30ft cliff band below Dallas was the worst part of the whole day...sooo steep and it is just as bad on the way down. We got to the summit block around 11am and looked around for the route we wanted to do (we were looking for a 5.7+) variation. Tried a few things but then down climbed cause it was sketch. After that, we then climbed up the rappel route into a dihedral below the summit. I don't know if anyone had ever climbed that route...I put it around 5.7..soo much choss! Got to the top by 12:20pm. We didn't spend long due to an approaching storm. Rappelled the route and then rappelled the 4th class section (more like low 5th class). As we were setting up that rappel, hail and lightning reined down upon us and we could feel the static electricity in the air (our climbing gear was vibrating). We booked it down with the crazy storm. We took the Sneffles Trail back to our cars and arrived around 3:00pm. It took is around ~9hrs round trip with getting lost and waiting out the storm along the Sneffels Highline Trail
Way overrated. I didn't feel that there was much exposure at all. Lots of easy scree hiking between short easy class 3-4 steps. The summit pitch has maybe one move of 5th class which you definately wouldn't want to fall on. A rope for rappeling was much preferred to downclimbing the crux.
Be vigilant if others are climbing above you as the route crosses back and forth over you several times.
3 czech girls that day on the summit of Dallas. Not very technical, just pay attention where you are going.
Left my aging doggy at home for this one.
Awesome mountain! Went with Shawn the day after doing Teakettle. Did not have route-finding issues. The one place I was worried about was once we arrived at the base of the 1st set of cliffs, should we go right and around to the east, or to the left and up to the base of the 2nd set of cliffs. But just at that spot, the cairns started and led the way. Not nearly as difficult as I was expecting: Great trail on the approach, easy grassy slopes, some good class 3, some relatively solid class 2 (even the loosest parts were WAY better than Teakettle), a few class 4 moves, then a nice (but chossy) summit pitch. I took too long trying to build an anchor to belay the 2nd up - nothing available on the summit. Had to downclimb one c4 move and sling a kinda iffy horn with a stuck cam as a back-up. Just barely beat the weather, so had to skedaddle. I had heard that the crux of the summit pitch was 15 feet up and that it was c3/4 the rest of the way. But I felt that there 2 or 3 similarly difficult moves after the first 15 feet. Used a 60m rope to rappel through the hole. I'd do this peak 25x before I'd do Teakettle again.
Solo climb via East Face Route from Mill Creek TH. Lots of choss with cool summit and great views. 8 hours car-to-car.
Click here to see Dallas Peak picture album.
I made it up and down before the rain, but man... what an amazing stack of choss! I'm not sure how it's still standing. Trip report.
climbed the rap route, which was really good, since the north facing ramp was buried, but all the snow made for some good boot skiing on the descent.
South Face Couloir (followed one ~M2 step) to standard 5.3 North gully (led ~M1 conditions) w/ MD.
1st: 7/31/10 - Climbed with Jamie, weather had been pretty iffy in Telluride all week, but behaved all morning for us. This is a great peak, the technical section is brief and the crux is within the first 15 feet, so not as exposed feeling as Teakettle which has the crux near the top. Not sure which one I would say is harder though, probably Dallas overall is harder.
2nd: 9/5/21 - Climbed with Scot, super clear weather. We teamed up with Lindsay, Dave and Sarah on the upper pitches and shared ropes for the raps, I led.
Stunning area with spectacular views! Mellow climbing to summit block, fun & airy rappel through rock hole. Great weather day. Will attempt T0 another day-too much combined scree for me!
Best weather I've had all year. Climbed with Ryan and Bill. The most difficult mountain I've climbed so far, but very enjoyable.
Ascended via the standard route (5.3 finish); rappelled off the summit block to the ground using a single 60m rope by going through the hole under the chockstone; 9 hours car-to-car from the Mill Creek TH.
7/2/06 - There was still snow at the base of the techncial pitch, but it didn't cause any problems. Weather looked like it was moving in so we couldn't hang out on the summit. An awesome climb. I will return.
3/19/17 - Winter ascent in bizarro conditions. Felt more like late May. We followed more or less the standard route until the top, then climbed a short pitch on the south side instead of the usual north face finish. Who would have thought Dallas might only take 8 hours in winter! Superb climbing conditions - thousands of feet of firm, efficient, steepish snow. We started early to avoid wet slide danger and topped out a bit after 8am.