Approach
You will not find the word Dammazwilling on the map, although it is well known name among Swiss climbers. Many climbers that reach the Gletschhorn from the usual south ridge did not have enough climbing and want more. To the north west is along ridge to the Tiefenstock (7 hours), why not climb it, maybe not for 7 hours, but just for another 3 hours?
What I describe here are the easiest routes the Dammazwillinge. There are direct walls from the Tiefenbach and Goeschener side. (VI+). Everything in excellt rock (Gotthard granit)
Route Description
First there is wonderful climbing to the South-West-Sporn and down to the Ober Gletschjoch (ca. 3155 m). With fingerlock 20 m up to a stand, then to the right, instead of climbing the more difficult overhang.Then to a ledge that leads to the east summit of Dammazwillinge (ca. 3280 m). Then walk down to the Zwillingsscharte (ca. 3200 m). It is possible to end the climb here and descend to the glacier, but it is not recommended (icy, falling rocks). Rather continue the climb to the western summit of Dammazwillinge (3275 m on the map). It consists of 2 minor summits, take the eastern (first) one as starting point to rappel down to the Tiefenglacier.Several rappels of 40 m each.
Essential Gear
Rappel 40 m
Miscellaneous Info
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