Dana Couloir Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 29

Deb - Oct 25, 2020 10:46 am Date Climbed: Oct 23, 2020

Blue Dinner Plates  Sucess!

A chilly autumn day in Glacier Cyn with lots of rock walking to the icy "glacier" below the north couloir. Soloed the couloir easily but quite nervous about brittleness of majority of the couloir. Lots of multiple strikes for purchase. A rare styrofoam section gave me a chance to relax and enjoy. Rockfall was a problem but I was only grazed by pebbles; stayed far climber's right.
The exit was death-dying. I went for the scrambly right exit instead of continuing to the top-out on wet rock/sand. Nearly taken down by fridge-sized boulder; lost my leashes in the debacle.
Summit was the usual "hmmmm" but happy to have a chance to relax in the summer and literally run down to my truck at Tioga Lake.
Awesome day of solitude!


HeloDoc - Oct 31, 2019 8:53 am Date Climbed: Oct 13, 2019

Still there  Sucess!

One very long day from Sacramento. Left the house at 6:30 am and started the hike in around 11. It was just about 3 hours to get to the couloir and start the climb. On your way in, stay in the valley, do not take the trail to the east, you will end up on the top and have to hike back down. The trail is hard to find, but everything funnels to the lakes. Stay on the east side of the lakes, its a bit easier of a hike.

I think I finished the climb in about 2-2.5 hours. The sides were fairly nice blue ice, the middle was softer. Both held tools very nicely. I never felt uneasy or like my axe would not hold. I set up a rest belay at about 8-900 feet and the screws were solid.

As I only had a few hours to get down before dark so I ended up taking one of the 5th class shoots on the decent (NOT recommended) it sucked. If you top out, the decent can be made via the normal Dana peak trail, a MUCH better option over what I did. Back in the car by 6:45 and home around 11PM. Long but amazing day. Bring water and food.


renzo - Jun 29, 2016 5:03 pm Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2016

dana couloir  Sucess!

Manky snow sun in the sun (above/below) and firm to icey in the shade. A fun climb up but decided not to splitboard down it and hiked down standard trail.


Bill562 - Jun 1, 2016 11:42 pm Date Climbed: May 29, 2016

Skied  Sucess!

Skiing conditions were the best above and below the couloir. Recommend climbing the couloir first before committing to ski it.


cdog - Jun 6, 2014 2:47 pm Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2014

fun jaunt  Sucess!

nice solo up Dana Couloir, over the summit, and down the NW Ridge to my truck at Tioga Lake. Half the lower couloir is water ice already, but I was able to stay right and climb quickly on solid neve.


Deb - May 26, 2013 9:20 pm Date Climbed: May 26, 2013

Primo Snow!  Sucess!

Stellar snow climbing conditions for one axe from bottom to top; tech tools not needed. Continuous snow to the bore of a summit too. Lovely day!


michaelp - Mar 2, 2012 11:21 am

back on snow  Sucess!

First climb back on sierra snow in many years. Good snow conditions, great fun.


aran - Oct 1, 2011 8:51 pm

Great first couloir!  Sucess!

Fun day out- left the parking lot around 5:30am- the couloir was firm snow, nice and easy to climb for a first one. Topped out to the best views of Mono lake, then hours of shitty scree descent...

Oh well. Great day out!


Darren9 - Sep 17, 2011 3:29 pm Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2011

Straightforward  Sucess!

Climbed with Sarah on an SMG outing. Still only firm, not really icy yet. Bergschrund is open but easily avoidable.

Vitaliy M.

Vitaliy M. - Jun 23, 2011 1:29 am

fun  Sucess!

Fun solo day. Started out from LVC parking lot because the road was still closed.


kayakjamie - Jun 19, 2011 1:50 pm Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2011

Ellery bowl not skiable  Sucess!

Dana Couloir snow conditions were great. An easy ski. It is great to hook up with Ellery Bowl. Ellery bowl was not skiable. There was a 30' cornice on the left that looked like it could fall at any moment. There had been a big slide on the left. The snow was a bit rotten with big exposure on the steep section with exposed rocks at the bottom of the pitch.


GigaMike - Feb 7, 2011 10:49 pm Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2010

Dana Couloir  Sucess!

Climb the Dana Couloir with my friend westhegimp. Good intro to alpine ice.


myjudge - Oct 27, 2010 2:00 pm Date Climbed: Oct 15, 2010

1st Time climbing around Tioga  Sucess!

Great climb after the first snow storm this Fall. Beautiful view from the summit! The couloir was about a foot or more of fresh snow with solid ice underneath. We were able to place screws near the bottom, but then had to use pickets the rest of the way. Decided to switch to a running belay about halfway. Not quite as steep as we expected, but still very fun. Lots of security with the new snow. It would have been very different a week before on ice.
Long day (6:30am-7pm) and difficult to navigate without a trail, but as long as you stay high on the ridge down from the summit and can follow the creek back to Tioga Lake you're fine.


haishan - Oct 19, 2010 11:12 pm Date Climbed: Sep 19, 2010

first long AI lead  Sucess!

Stayed too high on the approach and encountered some cool crevasses while traversing over to the bergschrund. Good, variable conditions, a fun climb.


rhyang - Sep 17, 2010 1:30 am Date Climbed: Sep 16, 2010

Enjoyable solo  Sucess!

Chilly late-summer morning. Bergschrund open, but there was a good snowbridge on the right hand side. Ice stretched full across the couloir, though less so on the left, so I headed up that way.

Mostly neve, but the ice was clear as glass in places. Beautiful day up top, hiked down usual tourist trail.

Also climbed it in 2004, 2005 and 2006 -- always late summer / early fall.


biz - Jul 6, 2010 1:53 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2010

Dana couloir  Sucess!

Great conditions and a relatively fun approach. 5 pitches to the top of the couloir. Climbed with Mark Stoldz.

Vertigo soul

Vertigo soul - Jun 7, 2010 1:23 pm Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2010

Ski descent of the Dana Cooly!  Sucess!

The snow in the couloir was surprisingly softer than expected and kicking steps was quite easy. Toured over to the plateau and towards the top of Ellery Bowl. Pretty soft and sticky by that time of the day. Great day and a couple Tioga Pass classic descents!

pjc30943 - Aug 5, 2009 2:25 am Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2008

Not struck, luckily  Sucess!

Lots of rockfall, a few novel-sized blocks whirred by within several feet. Great climb with great scenery.


JHH60 - Jun 24, 2009 9:05 pm Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2008

Blue ice conditions  Sucess!

Hard ice, falling rock, fun!

tb00957 - Oct 6, 2008 4:51 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2008

dana couloir  Sucess!

Mostly snow with some icy spots.

Viewing: 1-20 of 29
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