One very long day from Sacramento. Left the house at 6:30 am and started the hike in around 11. It was just about 3 hours to get to the couloir and start the climb. On your way in, stay in the valley, do not take the trail to the east, you will end up on the top and have to hike back down. The trail is hard to find, but everything funnels to the lakes. Stay on the east side of the lakes, its a bit easier of a hike.
I think I finished the climb in about 2-2.5 hours. The sides were fairly nice blue ice, the middle was softer. Both held tools very nicely. I never felt uneasy or like my axe would not hold. I set up a rest belay at about 8-900 feet and the screws were solid.
As I only had a few hours to get down before dark so I ended up taking one of the 5th class shoots on the decent (NOT recommended) it sucked. If you top out, the decent can be made via the normal Dana peak trail, a MUCH better option over what I did. Back in the car by 6:45 and home around 11PM. Long but amazing day. Bring water and food.
Manky snow sun in the sun (above/below) and firm to icey in the shade. A fun climb up but decided not to splitboard down it and hiked down standard trail.
Skiing conditions were the best above and below the couloir. Recommend climbing the couloir first before committing to ski it.
nice solo up Dana Couloir, over the summit, and down the NW Ridge to my truck at Tioga Lake. Half the lower couloir is water ice already, but I was able to stay right and climb quickly on solid neve.
Stellar snow climbing conditions for one axe from bottom to top; tech tools not needed. Continuous snow to the bore of a summit too. Lovely day!
First climb back on sierra snow in many years. Good snow conditions, great fun.
Fun day out- left the parking lot around 5:30am- the couloir was firm snow, nice and easy to climb for a first one. Topped out to the best views of Mono lake, then hours of shitty scree descent...
Oh well. Great day out!
Climbed with Sarah on an SMG outing. Still only firm, not really icy yet. Bergschrund is open but easily avoidable.
Fun solo day. Started out from LVC parking lot because the road was still closed.
Dana Couloir snow conditions were great. An easy ski. It is great to hook up with Ellery Bowl. Ellery bowl was not skiable. There was a 30' cornice on the left that looked like it could fall at any moment. There had been a big slide on the left. The snow was a bit rotten with big exposure on the steep section with exposed rocks at the bottom of the pitch.
Climb the Dana Couloir with my friend westhegimp. Good intro to alpine ice.
Great climb after the first snow storm this Fall. Beautiful view from the summit! The couloir was about a foot or more of fresh snow with solid ice underneath. We were able to place screws near the bottom, but then had to use pickets the rest of the way. Decided to switch to a running belay about halfway. Not quite as steep as we expected, but still very fun. Lots of security with the new snow. It would have been very different a week before on ice.
Long day (6:30am-7pm) and difficult to navigate without a trail, but as long as you stay high on the ridge down from the summit and can follow the creek back to Tioga Lake you're fine.
Stayed too high on the approach and encountered some cool crevasses while traversing over to the bergschrund. Good, variable conditions, a fun climb.
Chilly late-summer morning. Bergschrund open, but there was a good snowbridge on the right hand side. Ice stretched full across the couloir, though less so on the left, so I headed up that way.
Mostly neve, but the ice was clear as glass in places. Beautiful day up top, hiked down usual tourist trail.
Also climbed it in 2004, 2005 and 2006 -- always late summer / early fall.
Great conditions and a relatively fun approach. 5 pitches to the top of the couloir. Climbed with Mark Stoldz.
The snow in the couloir was surprisingly softer than expected and kicking steps was quite easy. Toured over to the plateau and towards the top of Ellery Bowl. Pretty soft and sticky by that time of the day. Great day and a couple Tioga Pass classic descents!
Lots of rockfall, a few novel-sized blocks whirred by within several feet. Great climb with great scenery.
Hard ice, falling rock, fun!
Mostly snow with some icy spots.
Great first ice climb...