Desperate man's crank through...

Desperate man's crank through the crux off-width section of P1 of Honeymoon Chimney. As soon as the picture was taken, I was hanging and resting on the bolt! After that you're sort of forced to do some cleaner climbing as the pro consists of shakey #4 Big Bro (note the totally useless #3) placements protecting ~20+ feet of climbing. Note my palm prints on the left wasn't pretty... (Feb. 5, 2005).


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mekwise - Mar 1, 2005 6:03 pm - Hasn't voted


there is a bolt there? it because of the off-width nature of that beast?!! looks like pure groveling :)


rpc - Mar 1, 2005 6:10 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: bolt?

Yeah there are 2 fixed pieces on this pitch:

1st is a good-looking bolt about 15 feet above the start of the OW

2nd is a drilled piton on which I'm about to hang in the photo. These get you thru. the worst of the groveling IMHO.

Think these were there from the time of FA (could be wrong though). The OW is too wide for the largest cams out there and will only take #4 Big Bros. With these 2 bolts, bringing 2 #4's makes for good peace of mind; w/o these bolts you'd need to bring at least 3 #4's (if not 4) if you're not real comfy with off-width climbing like me.


colbyjw - Aug 6, 2005 8:05 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: bolt?

It wasn't pretty for me either brutha.

I do not know about the drilled angle, but the quarter inch bolt (the first fixed piece) was definitely added later (and they should have used at least a nice 3/8" bolt instead). Fred Knapp says in Classic Desert Climbs, "if you're going to retro-bolt something, why not use modern gear?"

I can't remember what quidebook this phrase comes from, but the bolts up higher "are sure to please the history buff".

On a side note, not sure where to add it or if it has already been said, a #3 and #3.5 camalot make a nice back-up for the anchors on top of pitch 3; however, pieces this big are useless for the rest of the route. If someone updates that anchor you won't need to bring pieces that big.

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