Awesome Peak. Gorgeous approach from Boulder Lake trailhead. Loved the solid rock and extended scrambling on the ridge.
I was surprised Tom's book doesn't even mention approaching the NW face from Kane trailhead. On a map it looked like the most obvious route (you practically park at the base of the mountain) so I went for it. Hiked along the trail for about 20min then turned left up the steep hillside to another creek that leads you to the NW face. The entire face is class2-3 so any path works from there. 2h40m car to summit- a pleasant contrast to the typical long approaches in the Pios.
Really enjoyed the fact that there was almost no scree along the route. The boulder hopping to the summit was a blast. It's fun!
Summitted again August 15, 2015. Probably my favorite climb in Idaho. Took along a couple of friends but they stopped a few hundred feet short.
Finally made it, this time sticking firmly to the northeast ridge. Except for the smoke, a perfect day. Was breeze-free and 70 on the summit. Here are some photos...
From Kane Creek- directly up west face which turns into a ridge that leads to the summit. It was mostly Class 3 & 4, but 1 stellar very steep and exposed 5.6 pitch took us to the scramble summit. Rapped and scrambled off south ridge and followed ridgeline south to Abel etc.
I scrambled around the false summit and made my way up the ridge. there was still, a fair ampunt of snow on the face so I opted for the Northeast ridge wich was for the most part bare. this is on of the most sustained class 3/4 routes I have done to date with a fair amount of exposure in the last 30 feet.I had to pass between a small snow field and a cornice to gain the last 4th class portion of the scramble wich was the most challenging part. over all one of the best scrambles in the state. Boulder creek is truly incredible.
One of the better scrambles- steep, ridge line scrambling and tall!
Absolutely spectacular mountain. So high, rugged and beautiful. Attempted last June but snow on North face was too slushy. Now with basically no snow, followed North ridge around spire midway up on excellent, solid class 3 rock. Only a few tricky moves. Very satisfying ascent. RT time of 7 hours. Seems I was only one to sign summit register this year so far, interesting.
We ascended in perfect light until we reached the summit at 9pm. We then descended in the growing dark. This was hands down the most focused, intense climbing of my life. When we reached the saddle at 11pm we were bathed in bright light from the full moon to the south, which had been completely obscured during our descent of the north face. Basically, we had to climb to the light to get off the Devil's Bedstead that night.
soloed the Buttress directly behind Washington Lake, The rock wasn't bad but the exposure was. Climbed down the N.E ridge. Climbed it again by the North face in May of 2009 and got to ski down, steep!
One of Idaho's best kept secrets. Outstanding climb.
Climbed with the IdahoSummits folks. Great time. Couldn't see much. Pretty sustained steep scrambling. The biggest difficulty was the fresh snow on the talus.
Made it to 11,200' before turned back by snow and better judgement. I posted a trip report. Hope to go back some day...
Climbed on the Idahosummits fall outing. No views because of snow, but the challenge and people made it interesting.
A great climb with the IdahoSummits group. Snow and fog added to the adventure, but couldn't keep us down. Here’s a few photos.
10 of us summitted on the Idahosummits.com fall outing. A great peak full of fun and excitment, made more interesting with some fresh snow. Took us about 4.5 hours to summit.
Annual 2005 IdahoSummits fall gathering.
It was a snowy and foggy day that certainly made the climb quite difficult in spots.
Snowy September day on the IdahoSummits.com fall outing.