Devils Kitchen Lemon Squeezer Climber's Log

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Brian C

Brian C - Jun 7, 2011 3:11 pm Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2011

Through the rabbit hole  Sucess!

A pretty cool route. Took a short rope up the crux and my wife appreciated the belay. Not sure if I would call the wall 5.6 (closer to 5.3 maybe), but the crumbly rock in the middle gets your attention. If you don't bring gear like we did the second faces a pendulum and you have to tunnel to the top to get a belay stance. If you brought gear there is not much for placements but a small crack could protect the second. It did work fine with a 30m rope though and allowed to pull the pack through the hole. Be prepared to downclimb unless there is another common descent we didn't know about (maybe the lime squeezer?). We downclimbed the into an amphitheater immediatley left of the lemon squeezer down an overhanging bowl onto a tree. Very fun!


dakotaconcrete - Nov 24, 2010 3:47 pm Date Climbed: Nov 21, 2010

close, but not the lemon squeezer

I wish I had seen this before heading there this weekend! Pretty cool area, I didn't take the exact route you mention here but I did see the hardwear in the rock. I took a route that starts near there, it starts from a pretty tight crack and heads up quickly! From there I made it to the tree needed to get up the ledge but the weather turned sour and I turned back! Its good to see another way up when I head back for a repeat.

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