1st Pitch- 35m- 5.7/ Easy to get distracted on this pitch since there are a half a dozen routes in this area. Basically start up the Gollum Grooves as you would for Smeagol, real easy climbing. The guide book gives you several variations to set up an anchor, but the best is to just keep going straight up, past a pinnacle on your left vs moving hard left. Set up a gear belay at the base of a corner/crack.
Dicks Route, 5.9, 3 Pitches, East End, Yamnuska, Canadian Rockies, 2008