Dirruhorn Climber's Log

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boriskrielen

boriskrielen - Feb 5, 2018 5:38 am Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2011

Nadelgrat solo  Sucess!

Climbed the Nadelgrat solo from the Mischabel hut.

mirka

mirka - Nov 7, 2017 2:21 am Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2017

From Galenjoch  Sucess!

"Were you successful?" Kind of... We had the same plan as described below: whole Nadelgrat from Galenjoch. The ridge from Galenjoch to the top of Dirruhorn is challenging and, most of all, endless. It is super nice and worth the climb, but really doesnt seem so long from below. Reached the summit too late and descended from Dirrujoch down to Ried Gletscher. There are some anchors for rappeling before you reach the actuall pass descending from Dirruhorn, but you need to look for them really hard, they generally lead diagonally towards the culoir that you need to downclimb after. It had super soft snow as the day was warm. At the bottom you find two huge bergschruns, you need to downclimb in steep ice towards them and then somehow rappel/jump down. The glacier was then melted as hell and we were crossing that huge thing in deep soft snow, sometimes waist-deep. One of the tougher days in my life.

JuhoK

JuhoK - Jul 19, 2013 4:27 am Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2013

Nadelgrat solo traverse  Sucess!

First peak of my solo traverse on Nadelgrat.

Eelconl

Eelconl - Mar 21, 2013 8:42 pm Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2008

Summerclimb  Sucess!

Full Nadelridge untill Nadelhorn.

il.rocciatore

il.rocciatore - Aug 20, 2011 11:02 am

Route Climbed: North Ridge / Nadelgrat to Galenjoch Date Climbed: august 2011 / september 2012  Sucess!

2011: Our goal was to climb the entire Nadelgrat from the Galenjoch. After climbing Chli Dirruhorn and Dirruhorn (nice scrambling and some climbing at steeper sections), we were behind schedule and decided descending in rappel through East Couloir of the Dirrujoch...bad idea! Loose rock, diagonal line for rappel, searching for anchors, downclimbing steep snow/ice, rock fall...not a place you wanna spend the afternoon. Arrived at Bordier Hut at 6.00 o'clock in the evening. Completing the entire Nadelgrat wouldn't have taken us much longer...

2012: Traversed the Nadelgrat from the Mischabelhütte to the Galenjoch. Extremely long tour! I never thought I would pass again over the summit of Dirruhorn, although in the other direction. While climbing of the North Ridge was quite straightforward, descending proved to time consuming and seemed endless. Luckily we made it in time to the Galenjoch before darkness fell in.

mirka

mirka - Nov 7, 2017 2:25 am

Re: Route Climbed: North Ridge / Nadelgrat to Galenjoch Date Climbed: august 2011 / september 2012

Wish I had read this before we set of to our very same attempt :) Glad that you made it in the other diretion the year after! I will be coming back for Nadelgrat too, however, when climbing up from Galenjoch I sweared I never want to descend that way :D

Peter K

Peter K - Sep 7, 2010 8:56 am Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2010

Route Climbed: Nadelgrat  Sucess!

We climbed the Nadelgrat from the Bordier hut starting at the Galenjoch and traversing Dirruhorn, Hobärghorn & Stecknadelhorn. Galenjoch to Dirruhorn took half of the time of the whole ridge - much snow, no tracks. Decided to cross the Nadelhorn north face and descend without the summit due to the time. Most of the rock fragile, but not that difficult. Though an interesting climb in a spectacular ambiance, following this nice pearl necklet. In the afternoon the Ried glacier already was one single swampy minefield.

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