Dirty Book, 5.10a

Dirty Book- 5.10a/

Dirty Book has just one established route and a couple of projects (2007). Dirty Book is a two pitch route that doglegs up ugly ground to a ledge. Then traverse right to the base of a “dirty” corner (rappel station) that could be easily protected, but is bolted. Birds and bats keep the corner moist with shit. Still it can be a fun, stem filled, athletic mother of a route until the crack gets to large for your hands and eats up your arms before the last bolt….might as well stick your arm into a box full of dull razor blades. You need to do several true arm stem moves to reach the last bolt. I would take a Camelot #4 or #5 if I did this route again to protect these nasty last moves. If you fall on an arm stem here, you will rip some flesh off of your arms. The limestone is that sharp in this corner. You also need to tape your hands for this pitch. I recommend dividing the pitch up at the mid rappel/belay station or bring extra long runners versus draws to stymie the rope drag situation on the dogleg. Dirty Book, 5.10a, Bataan, Grotto Mountain, Canmore, AB, August, 2007