Dombai-Ulgen Climber's Log

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S-P-U-T-N-I-K - Sep 27, 2016 12:52 am Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2016

Top of Abkhazia !  Sucess!

A great climb, we climbed the north ridge. For photos and informations (in German) see:

andre hangaard

andre hangaard - Sep 16, 2016 9:47 am Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2016

Greatest rockclimb!  Sucess!

Together with my friend SP'er Sputnik we climbed Dombai-Ul’gen in three days over the northern ridge from Fisher's Saddle (normal route) through Ptyš Valley.
On day one we made our camp just below the Fisher’s Saddle. To our surprise the altitude of the pass was around 3590m and not the lower 3200m which we had thought before.

Day two we climbed the ridge to the summit in two parties. Our start got one hour delayed as a thunderstorm was threatening in the far. At 6.15 AM we roped up on the ridge and after four hours we stood on the top. We began our descent at noon. The weather was shifting in all kinds of directions but turned out quite well in the end. On the descent we belayed almost the entire ridge and rappelled around 12-14 pitches. This was very time consuming and the last pitch was made in complete darkness with headlamps on our helmets. Almost all of the belay stations needed to be set up as only a few (very old) bolts and pitons were available.
On day three we hiked back to the charming little mountain village of Dombai.

The climb of the Dombai-Ul’gen was truly scenic and fascinating. A remote mountain in a beautiful and wild part of the western Caucasus. Apparently the mountain do not get many visitors despite its fame and dramatic history.
On this climb we were in good company of the extremely competent Alex Eliseev (Head guide and K2-summiteer) and Alex Sushko (Assistant guide and Soviet Snow Leopard), both from the excellent Russian mountaineering company


Sergey - Apr 2, 2013 10:38 am Date Climbed: Jul 11, 1976

Western summit  Sucess!

Sourth-Western ridge from Dombai pass


Sergey - Apr 2, 2013 10:36 am Date Climbed: Jul 9, 1973

Grand Dombai-Ulgen  Sucess!

Classical route from Fischer's Saddle

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