W/ Fletcher. Snow-finger was out, so we went around to the west side and did 2 short pitches to reach the standard route. Easy climbing and beautiful views. Went to Eldorado next.
Thanks for going back Josh! Trip report
The most interesting summit ending of all the peaks of the Inspiration Traverse. It's not as bad as it looks, but is a bit exciting. Snow bridge onto the peak was a bit thin and was ready to bust, but probably had a few more days of life.
Overall a great peak.
Awesome scramble up the NW ridge. We packed up from the Eldorado TH and summitted just before sunset. The sunset glow as we returned to our decided camp at the Tepeh Towers col was fantastic. The cheval was cool and the moat crossing wasn't too bad
Super-fun daytrip of Eldorado, Klawatti, and Dorado Needle. Trip report.
fun day trip combining skiing eldo, dorado needle and Dean's spire with Matt, Dave and Oyvind - 15 hrs big day!
I stopped before the cornice covered Au cheval section but Oyvind blazed on given the chance and belay. Looks like it would be a different place in summer.
Great times with fun guys! Thanks boyz
Climbed the SW Buttress route. Our plan for an alpine start backfired as we missed the proper col to drop down and wasted 2 1/2 hours going the long way around, although it was very scenic. The route was longer than expected and we ended up biving another night with very little to eat. We cobbled together some cheese soup (cheddar cheese, dry milk, water, spices) which I may remember for the rest of my life.
The day we rolled into this area a climber had fallen and got choppered out as we set up camp. His partner ran back alone to get help - a 2 day hike made in one - and saved his life. That left us alone for all but the last of 8 days on the Inspiration Glacier. Our Summit of the Dorado Needle was the epic climb of the week, as the snow moat gap was 12+ feet and 200+ feet deep in the front, so we went around the back north side. I led our team through the "eye" of the needle to summit. One of the best raps down from a summit in the NW, and McAllister Glacier is beyond beautiful too.
excellent climb except for the 6 foot leap across the moat onto a wet and slippery rock.
MacAllister Glacier is a beauty!
This was an interesting climb done right after Eldorado Peak. The ascent was up a modified path on the northwest ridge (starting more on the east face) and lead to a knife edge rock traverse to obtain the summit.