It shares the same gear belay start as Felsic. Climb the 5th class crack to the right side of a small ledge. Make a station with C4#.75’s through #2’s anywhere in the horizontal crack in the base of this ledge. Climb through the first three or four bolts on Felsic. Take off right on the separate bolt line. Mostly face climbing on small chicken heads to a fixed rap. Never really felt the 5.10a move, but the climbing was sustained 5.9. Double 60m ropes get you down.
Felsic is yet another typical bolted dike climb in Tuolumne. It shares the same gear belay start as Cheetos and Everclear. Climb the 5th class crack to the right side of a small ledge. Make a station with C4#.75’s through #2’s anywhere in the horizontal crack in the base of this ledge. The first clip does involve climbing at the grade, maybe even the crux of the pitch. From there, clip approximately ten bolts to the fixed rap anchor. You are mostly climbing face features, i.e. chicken heads, vs the dike itself. You can continue on up Isotacy (5.8R) for two more pitches. When rapping, you can stop back at your belay ledge and climb Cheetos and Everclear (5.10a) which I thought was a better route even though it did not have the dike. Double 60m ropes get you down.
The run out is on 5th class terrain. Scramble up 3rd or 4th class to a ledge where you can make a station with C4#.75’s through #2’s anywhere in the horizontal crack in the base of this ledge. Climb a crack system with a mix of bolts and gear (single rack to C4#2) to a fixed rap anchor that is shared with Felsic. Climb easy run out to the visible crack above. Take a full 200’ to a rap anchor. The final pitch is the best. A short and thoughtful (for the grade) face climb through 3 bolts to another rap anchor at 60’. Double 60m ropes get you down in 3 raps.
This route starts at the obvious 3 trees next to the wall on the left side. The short 5.10a move, wherever it is, is similar to Cheetos and Everclear, mostly climbing and stemming off of small chicken heads. Maybe a little more interesting route finding through the bolts than Cheetos. Follow a right leaning crack system to another. The guide says 5.6 and 5.8 respectfully. No move felt 5.8. Cross over a sloping ledge to start clipping 4 bolts through the 5.10a section. The topo shows 5.9R from there to the rap anchor, but I did not consider that ground run out nor 5.9. Clip a couple of bolts to start the 2nd pitch (5.9), then easy ground (5th) through three more bolts to a rap anchor. The last pitch can be wet at certain times of snow melt. It is mostly low angled 5.6 through spaced out bolts to another rap anchor. Double 60m ropes get you down in 3 raps. You can place a couple pieces of gear but the competent leader could easily go without.
Getting back on stone after a 4 month hiatus due to injuries. Interestingly slick crystals on Scandulus Summer, but Cheeseburger was quite nice.
well protected face climbing and easy 5.8 crux move at the top.
Real nice spot to take friends who haven't been on a multipitch before. Totally knobular climbing on holdless was entertaining, and the views from the top.....a complete joy. Even the walk off is beautiful, this place does NOT suck.
A bit crowded, was quite pleased with the routes available. Great crag... looking forward to going back again.
Classics were all taken, so we squeezed in Ripple at the end of the day. Will definitely be back. I thought the walkoff was cool as well. Definitely worth doing at least once.
Did up the classics, want more!!!!
Climbed off the couch and onto this a few years back as a warm up to Oz. Beautiful route with sustained climbing on the last pitch. The hike off is really scenic as well.
Climbed with Mike on a warm late summer day.
Led Scandalous Summer (5.7), followed Cheeseburgers & Fries (5.8). Led pitch 1 and 3 of Bull Dozier (5.7), Mike led p2. Finally we swapped leads on Isostacy (5.8) - Mike led pitch one and three.
Brought 60m half ropes for full-length rappels without having to walk off the dome. Beautiful day !
Also climbed Holdless Horror (5.6) three times (have led each pitch twice).
Mary and I did this route on a day trip to Tuolumne after I worked a bunch of night shifts in the ER. Left Fresno at 8:30AM, drove up to Tuolumne (I slept for an hour in the car), had lunch in the Meadows, and then climbed the route. Easy approach, fun climbing, and a beautiful descent.
Climbed HH. Pitch 2 went som much better when I left the crack and face climbed. Beat the crowds, (lots of parties showed up as we started pitch 2) Great views from the top, but the best part is a super nice and scenic walk off.
Fun, well protected route. The crack is for the pro and the face is for the climbing. There are a bunch of nice new knobby bolted routes to the left and right of HH. We did Bit-by-Bit and Ripple, both high quality 5.8.
For being so close to the road, this was a nice uncrowded area to climb. No other parties on the whole formation.
Climbed this with Rob as a warm-up/acclimatization outing before Mt. Darwin the next day; he led pitches 1 and 3, while I led 2 and 4. The offwidth was kind of awkward until I figured out I should just climb on the face around it, then it became trivial. (It's easier than the 5.7 rating given it on the route page here, more like easy 5th class if I recall correctly). Really fun climb, although we didn't head up to the actual summit (it looks like a walk up from the top of the route).
Robin and I marked our first anniversary by climbing in Yosemite. We intended to stay in Camp 4 (where we met) and climb in the Valley, but all camping was full, so instead we headed to the high country and climbed in Tuolumne. Holdless Horror was quite enjoyable, and turned out to be a great way to spend the afternoon.
I led this route the day after hiking from Tuolumne to the Valley for a memorial service, at which I drank a lot of beer. These factors all gave me some concern as to my stability, but it ended up being a lot of fun. Holdless Horror is a cool crack route. Probably one of the best-protected 5.7s in Tuolumne.
We climbed it on a nice sunny day. A fun route with a bit of offwidth. Another fun time in Tuolumne