I also tried the mountain in summer 2006 but we failed because of - for us - too difficult rocks, at least UIAA III. Can you take a look at this picture and tell where you entered the ridge?
We entered the ridge near your mark "1" at the flat part of the ridge. Due to the snowfalls two days before there was a sufficient snow cover on the scree and icefield shown on your picture. The ascent to the ridge was not very difficult but I remember some ice and rocks under the fresh snow. And we had to climb with our crampons on because of some snow and ice within the rock climbing route.
I totaly agree with you that due to the global warming all those glacier routes must be done earlier in the year - june and july.
I just checked my primary picture of the south route site with your picture, it is amazing how much steeper the summit looks on your picture.
But you can clearly see the snow track on my primary picture ascending the scree field, covered with fresh snow and then traversing to the right, thus gaining the upper flat section of the ridge, marked with "1" on your picture.
Mathias Zehring - Feb 8, 2009 9:19 am - Voted 10/10
where entering the ridge?I also tried the mountain in summer 2006 but we failed because of - for us - too difficult rocks, at least UIAA III. Can you take a look at this picture and tell where you entered the ridge?
selinunte01 - Feb 8, 2009 10:45 am - Hasn't voted
Re: where entering the ridge?We entered the ridge near your mark "1" at the flat part of the ridge. Due to the snowfalls two days before there was a sufficient snow cover on the scree and icefield shown on your picture. The ascent to the ridge was not very difficult but I remember some ice and rocks under the fresh snow. And we had to climb with our crampons on because of some snow and ice within the rock climbing route.
I totaly agree with you that due to the global warming all those glacier routes must be done earlier in the year - june and july.
selinunte01 - Feb 8, 2009 10:55 am - Hasn't voted
Re: where entering the ridge?I just checked my primary picture of the south route site with your picture, it is amazing how much steeper the summit looks on your picture.
But you can clearly see the snow track on my primary picture ascending the scree field, covered with fresh snow and then traversing to the right, thus gaining the upper flat section of the ridge, marked with "1" on your picture.