East Buttress IV or IV+, 5.9- Climber's Log

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Schaps - Jul 18, 2014 11:03 pm

Possible second ascent?  Sucess!

With John Fischer


asmrz - Jul 4, 2011 8:49 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 1997

East Buttress IV or IV+, 5.9 Date Climbed: August 24,25 1997  Sucess!

Gerry Cox and I climbed this long, classic, and in the 1st RJ Secor's Edition, somewhat underrated ALPINE route (III,5.7) in 1997. We found 17 pitches with at least some 5.9 climbing, 500 feet of 4th class on the upper buttress, and ton of 3rd/4th scrambling on the summit ridge. Greg Vernon later said, haven't you guys climbed any other Al Greene routes? These guys were known for sandbagging! Really? Anyway, this is a reasonably good alpine route (with fairly short approach), especially if you can climb all these pitches in one day and descent the snow gully before it gets firm (long grade IV,5.9).

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