John Oliver and I climbed the East Face and the East Buttress over a weekend in July 1981. I believe we climbed the original route on the second tower as I recall traversing onto the shaded north side and finding two or three old pitons. We left Claremont, California on Friday evening and were back in the chemistry lab at Harvey Mudd College on Monday.
Got everything out of the climb I hoped for
Hiked to Iceberg lake, then up to base of climb. A skiff of snow kept things interesting on the slabs in the shade. Scrambling the last couple hundred feet took longer than we thought it would. Enjoyed the summit alone then made the long hike back to Whitney Portal
Amazing mountain and route. Unfortunately, some jerk pooped at the start of the route the day before, and covered his deposit with a thin layer of gravel. Didn't notice it was there until mid-belay when his crap was all over our rope, ATC, and hands.
Besides that, couldn't have been better!
Great and uneventful climb. Leisurely as usual, hiked to Iceberg lake in 2 days, summited Mountaineers Route in the afternoon of day 2 and climbed the Buttress on day 3. Morning hike out on day 4 for a nice breakfast/lunch in Lone Pine.
Sierra Mountaineering Club teams summited Whitney on this route in early May; some snow on the route but mostly dry, although cold in the shade. The rock is incredible - featured, interesting, and protects well. This route is an alpine rock classic!
Swapped leads with Brian H. A little snow on a shady corner of the second pitch gave some trouble, but otherwise perfect rock. There really are two cruxes: P3 and P7. Overall I found many of the pitches to be on the stiffer side of 5.6. Incredible route.
Excellent! Snow in a few places made things a bit trickier. A long, great day!
Climbed with Matt K. Did a 5.7 variation on the first pitch. Nice cool sunny day. Took a nap on the summit and set the rack down. Got to near the bottom of the Mountaineers route when I realized I'd left the rack. So climbed both routes in a day. Still made camp at Upper Boy Scout right after dark.
Fun climbing and excellent position, though not too sustained. It's not hard to scramble to the belay ledge partway up the description's P1. From there, it was 6-1/2 50m pitches (remember to move the belay to the base of the face on P2). We found some extracurricular climbing on P6 that was probably harder than 5.8. Trip report.
Great very fun route! 16.5 hours car to car
Phenomenal route! Stellar climbing on every pitch. Quite cold at this time of year, but much easier to get a permit.
The views are amazing, and what a classic trad climb, you "gots" to love it. It was a little chilly but I really enjoyed it nevertheless. There were a couple other parties climbing the same time as our group, but we had the peak to ourselves. We desended via the Moutaineers route and that was dusted in snow with icey patches, pretty dangerous.
c2c, The route is classic bc of location, not its climbing which is not so sustained. but the rock is good and the route super aesthetic...plus, it's a way to get up whitney without so many people...just go before the guided parties..
I enjoyed climbing this route from Upper Boy Scout Lake. Staying on route took a bit of time, but the climbing was fun and straightforward. We descended via the mountaineers route.
Windy and cold, but otherwise a great day. Climbed this with Isabelle and Memo.
With Neil and JB. Had a ball! Great weather and good friends.
Came up behind another party moving slowly on the second pitch. Great conditions, but ended up not going for the route because of the hour. Will be back for this July 24th!
Climbed this beautiful route with Pavel on a glorious late winter day. We camped at Iceberg Lake after getting there the day before from the snow line (~7,000'). Froze my ass and other body parts off as we got in the shade half way up the route. I was suffering quite mightily the entire trip and wondering what is happening, only to find out that I have bronchitis when we got down. Would I do it again? Absolutely!
with Misha. Seven pitches total with a 60m rope. Last two pitches we partly simuled. Topped out directly on the summit. Started with the 5.8 pitch, after PeeWee I took a wrong turn (stayed too much to the right) and got into some 5.9/10 territory... I lead pitches 1-7, all in plastics.
Relatively warm in the sun, cold in the shadow, windy up high. Total time on the rock approx. 7 hours. Good fun.