Lead Classic Crack in the Icicle and then Outer Space will be a cake-walk. Have fun! I also really recommend "Tangled up in Blue" (5.9) at Vantage, nice jamming. Go to the high anchor.
Right on. Ah, Catapult (5.8) at Castle Rock is one of my favorite climbs. I miss that nice straight-in granite jamming over here in central europe. I've gotta drive ~4 hours for any granite!
baloodh2000 - Apr 15, 2008 11:19 am - Hasn't voted
Re: lead...
My arms are totally recovered by now, but it was about a 2 day process with lots of EPSOM salt. So 5.8 is not 5.8 when you compare castlerock to Vantage or most road-side attractions up the Icicle. Completely different rating scale it seems like. We are headed out tomorrow for my first try at Catapult, Midway, and Saber. I may try to lead the South Face of the Jello tour also. I TR'd it last wednesday and the placements seem pretty straight forward. Wish you were here man, we could link up and shred!
Yeah that would be fun! I remember being intimidated by the South Face route, I saw someone fall. Not that dramatic or anything, but it "cast a shadow." But it was easier than I thought. If you want a sandbag, do the offwidth crack on the other side of Jello Tower (opposite Midway). That thing is evil!
Oh yeah. Total sandbag. We hopped on that route instead of midway last time. I was the second on the route and it was ass kicking enough with out having to pull huge pieces. My friend is a total expert climber in comparison to me and he wasn't his normal talkative self on some of the moves. I got to the little crawl in part and sat there for a minute after those first moves. I think the smallest piece was like a #2 BD. There is 1 real airy friction move on the South Face route but other than that it is straight forward. The hand crack section is awesome! We are headed out to castlerock to do more in a few minutes. May have a few more to add to my dispatch list. Watching someone fall is always a "shadow caster". While I don't pursue falling I have come to accept the fact that I am going to fall. Coming to terms with that has done wonders for my focus. Sport climbing is easy to get over falling, Trad on the other hand has a bit more responsibility entwined in. I have found it really depends on the climb too. If the pro is bommer and the rock is pretty vertical; no worries. But when you start getting sketchy placements or falls where you have to aim that is scary.
mvs - Apr 5, 2008 2:55 am - Hasn't voted
lead...Lead Classic Crack in the Icicle and then Outer Space will be a cake-walk. Have fun! I also really recommend "Tangled up in Blue" (5.9) at Vantage, nice jamming. Go to the high anchor.
baloodh2000 - Apr 11, 2008 5:00 am - Hasn't voted
Re: lead...Awesome! Thanks for the insight! This year is turning out great. Feeling a bit flamed after castlerock yesterday, but recovery will come quick.
mvs - Apr 11, 2008 8:12 am - Hasn't voted
Re: lead...Right on. Ah, Catapult (5.8) at Castle Rock is one of my favorite climbs. I miss that nice straight-in granite jamming over here in central europe. I've gotta drive ~4 hours for any granite!
baloodh2000 - Apr 15, 2008 11:19 am - Hasn't voted
Re: lead...My arms are totally recovered by now, but it was about a 2 day process with lots of EPSOM salt. So 5.8 is not 5.8 when you compare castlerock to Vantage or most road-side attractions up the Icicle. Completely different rating scale it seems like. We are headed out tomorrow for my first try at Catapult, Midway, and Saber. I may try to lead the South Face of the Jello tour also. I TR'd it last wednesday and the placements seem pretty straight forward. Wish you were here man, we could link up and shred!
mvs - Apr 15, 2008 1:53 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: lead...Yeah that would be fun! I remember being intimidated by the South Face route, I saw someone fall. Not that dramatic or anything, but it "cast a shadow." But it was easier than I thought. If you want a sandbag, do the offwidth crack on the other side of Jello Tower (opposite Midway). That thing is evil!
baloodh2000 - Apr 16, 2008 6:03 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: lead...Oh yeah. Total sandbag. We hopped on that route instead of midway last time. I was the second on the route and it was ass kicking enough with out having to pull huge pieces. My friend is a total expert climber in comparison to me and he wasn't his normal talkative self on some of the moves. I got to the little crawl in part and sat there for a minute after those first moves. I think the smallest piece was like a #2 BD. There is 1 real airy friction move on the South Face route but other than that it is straight forward. The hand crack section is awesome! We are headed out to castlerock to do more in a few minutes. May have a few more to add to my dispatch list. Watching someone fall is always a "shadow caster". While I don't pursue falling I have come to accept the fact that I am going to fall. Coming to terms with that has done wonders for my focus. Sport climbing is easy to get over falling, Trad on the other hand has a bit more responsibility entwined in. I have found it really depends on the climb too. If the pro is bommer and the rock is pretty vertical; no worries. But when you start getting sketchy placements or falls where you have to aim that is scary.
mvs - Apr 18, 2008 9:39 am - Hasn't voted
Re: lead...Haha! Awesome to hear about another poor soul like me on that thing. Keep up the great work, really makes me want to get on some rock soon.