El Diente/Mount Wilson Traverse Climber's Log

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aarobkol - Jul 9, 2022 5:34 pm Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2022

El diente Wilson traverse  Sucess!

Did the traverse from El Diente to Wilson on a clear day. Day hike from Killpacker, about 8.5 hours car to car.
Rock was a bit better than I'd been led to expect

Woodie Hopper

Woodie Hopper - Sep 24, 2019 6:11 am Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2019

El Diente -> Mount Wilson traverse  Sucess!

Solo. Mostly fun traverse with some loose rock and minor route finding difficulty. Personally didn't find the exposure closer to Mt. Wilson too daunting. Getting off route might buy you some low 5 chimney practice. Had the traverse all to myself. Cloudy all day which was not a bad thing.

Liba Kopeckova

Liba Kopeckova - Jul 27, 2013 9:58 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2013

fun scramble  Sucess!

Fun scramble from El Diente to Mount Wilson, nobody else on the ridge (just Patric my scrambling buddy and me).
We ascended North Buttress on El Diente, which was more exposed than the ridge. Descended into upper Navajo from Mount Wilson.

Matt Lemke

Matt Lemke - Jan 17, 2013 12:57 am Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2012

Awesome traverse  Sucess!

Did this with Josh Lewis. Ascended the North slopes of El Diente, traversed to Mount Wilson then descended.

Josh Lewis

Josh Lewis - Jul 11, 2012 2:59 am Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2012

Fun Traverse  Sucess!

This was a fun traverse. Certainly a classic as they say.


Hyadventure - Jul 9, 2012 7:03 pm Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2012

From Kilpacker  Sucess!

Loose, dirty, and exposed makes the ridge line a little scary, but I really don't remember any moves that felt harder then 3rd class.

Alex Wood

Alex Wood - Jun 29, 2012 3:42 pm Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2012

Steller Traverse  Sucess!

Left Navajo Lake at 6am knowing that there was a 30% chance of tstorms. Got to the top of El Diente via the godawful North Slope Route at 9:20am. Part of our group was having issues with exposure so we left the summit of El Diente at 10:00am and half our group decided to go down. We continued across the ridge and got to the saddle in 40 mins. A storm rolled in and we watched and heard the lighting from the ridge over Navajo Basin. It cleared up so we kept going. Went off route in the crux section and ended up climbing some scary 5th class choss. We summited Mt. Wilson at 11:30am and then went down the regular route back to lake. All in all, it took 8 hours roundtrip. The summit ridge to Mt. Wilson is spectacular and the coolest summit ridge I have ever done


zoomloco - Jul 16, 2011 4:44 pm Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2009

a nice traverse  Sucess!

has a few spectacular moments on the latter half (wilson half). TR up at http://zoomloco.xanga.com/732717261/purple-mountain-majesties/


strudolyubov - Sep 13, 2010 12:02 pm Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2010

El Diente-Wilson Traverse  Sucess!

Solo traverse from El Diente to Mount Wilson on a day trip from Kilpacker TH. Climbed El Diente via South Slopes Route, traversed to Mt. Wilson and returned via Navajo Lake and Kilpacker Trails. 12 hours car-to-car. Nice scrambling, beautiful weather, great views.


mirhash - Aug 5, 2010 12:45 am Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2010

First Solo Traverse  Sucess!

Great scrambling in the San Juans! Had an excellent time and completed my first of the four traverses solo

Brad Snider

Brad Snider - Aug 5, 2009 4:45 pm Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2009

My 3rd of the 4...  Sucess!

"Great 14er Traverses." Did this one in the fog and ended up climbing the south face of Mount Wilson directly to the summit. Enjoyed the coxcomb!


benners - Dec 9, 2008 8:45 pm Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2007

Epic  Sucess!

My climbing bud and I were at it for 20 hours straight getting these 2 and Wilson Peak. Great route.


shanahan96 - Sep 9, 2007 9:54 pm Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2007

wilson-tooth traverse  Sucess!

as far as the great fourteener traverses go, this one was easily the least enjoyable. it seemed like most of the traverse was slogging across loose rock. the coxcomb and the airy section just before wilson's summit were cool!



chicagotransplant - Sep 4, 2007 11:34 am Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2007

via Kilpacker Approach  Sucess!

Climbed with Shanahan96, JamieNellis and ATTM. Most of the traverse is done below the ridge, but the part on the ridge crest from West Wilson over the "coxcomb" to the summit as a lot of fun and very airy. Kipacker was a good way to approach these peaks, we saw no one while we ascended or descended, just on the ridge crest. Long scree slog though in the upper basin, that was the only downside of this approach.

Scott Rogers

Scott Rogers - Jul 11, 2007 9:49 pm Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2007

Fun Stuff!  Sucess!

Made the traverse from the tooth to Mt. Wilson on a beautiful day. It was very enjoyable and the rock was solid where it needed to be. Took just over 2 hours at a moderate pace. The glissade off of Mt. Wilson was excellent!


Flex - Dec 23, 2006 10:34 pm

Solo Jul/04  Sucess!

I soloed from Mt Wilson to El Diente in 1:45 and glissaded down to Navajo lake. A great day in the mountains!

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