Short, steep slog, followed by some crazy crevasse navigating, and one of the gnarliest, most exhausting glacier ascents I've done in a while. Was too cloudy to get good views much of the time, but the few times the clouds broke, the sights were nothing short of legendary. Track up summit ridge was well-stamped out, and I didn't bother roping up for it since the snow was decently soft and the boot tracks deep and secure
bluecappo - Jun 18, 2019 12:39 pm Date Climbed: May 14, 2006
So Great!
Such an epic traverse over to the summit and one of the best areas in the state!
travel_murse - Mar 20, 2019 2:08 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2019
Queen of the Cascades
An adventure I’ll never forget!
Youliana - Oct 28, 2018 11:47 pm Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2018
Eldorado!
Gorgeous day trip. One of our party was on splitboard and enjoyed a fast descent.
beaudaddy85 - Oct 21, 2018 5:47 pm Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2017
Beautiful Area
Such a beautiful area. Camped on Inspiration Glacier, summited following morning. Would be a great 1 day peak so you don't have to haul overnight gear.
A cold, somewhat cloudy summit, but amazing as a first time for me. My team reached the Eldorado Glacier first and trekked across it finding that new fallen snow covered at least 6 crevasses completely. A true knife edge summit, we had to move up the edge on the side rather than on the top. A truly rewarding climb.
funkstuf - Aug 14, 2018 7:09 pm Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2018
Summited in the clouds
First time up, celebrating 60th birthday and still hadn't been here. Lots of clear weather on the evening of the 2nd, then Friday morning we summited in the clouds without a view, and climbed down in a drizzle. The upside was that we were the only climbers and had the high camp and summit to ourselves. Very fun climb!
rtgomez90 - Jun 2, 2018 8:15 pm Date Climbed: May 25, 2018
E Ridge
Two days. Tough approach. A not-so-alpine start. Soft snow. Did it!
ZakG - Jan 23, 2018 9:25 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2012
Eldorado!
Thirteen years after turning around at the Eldorado Glacier to go down to study for a final in a class I can't remember, I finally went back and climbed the peak. I wish I hadn't studied for that test that I can't remember anymore. Oh well, I finally did it.
Jake Robinson - Jul 19, 2017 3:13 am Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2017
East Ridge
W/ Fletcher (repeat for him) after Dorado Needle. The route was easy and the summit ridge was a sidewalk - no need to rope up.
mvkazit - Jun 27, 2017 10:44 am Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2017
Supers scenic
Awesome destination.
Full report: http://mvkazit.blogspot.com/2017/06/eldorado-peak.html
tcingrum - Aug 8, 2016 1:18 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2016
Eldorado
One day shot. Summit seems to go forever.
Ian Culhane - Aug 8, 2016 12:40 am Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2016
East Ridge
Route is in excellent conditions; virtually no crevasses for the entire way (and the only ones present are tiny). Excellent weather on the first day, but ended up summitting in a whiteout the second day. The ridge is fairly steep, but there's a well worth path to the top.
kevinsa - Jul 31, 2016 12:19 am Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2016
Eldorado
Awesome climb - did it as a one-day
Ian Culhane - Jun 10, 2016 1:31 pm Date Climbed: May 21, 2016
East Ridge
Technically not a true summit, but I'm gonna call it one anyways. Hiked up Saturday afternoon through rain and a whiteout; camped just after the notch leading to Roush Basin. Snow starts at around 5200', just after the boulder fields. We ended up waiting all of Sunday for a storm to clear, and finally got blue skies that evening (first ones of the trip!). The five of us left camp at 2:30AM for the summit; climbing up the East ridge at sunrise was absolutely spectacular, especially with the blanket of clouds at around 5000'. The Eldorado/Inspiration glaciers are pretty tame currently; we didn't encounter any crevasses on our route. The final 50' of the knife edge ridge was pretty treacherous (60 degree slopes, huge cornice, and powdery snow from the previous night), so we decided to turn around. Back to the cars by around 2:30AM. An amazing climb altogether; I'll definitely be back someday to finish that last 50'.
mrjenks85 - Aug 24, 2015 6:41 pm Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2015
Becoming one of my favorites
I have lived in the Pacific Northwest for less than a year, so I have not done enough repeat summits to say for sure what my favorite peaks are. After 2 climbs of this one I know its going to be one on the list.
Did this one as a 2 day overnight where we stayed at the camp at the base of the ridge and climbed for a sunrise summit. Forrest fires obscured views of some of the mountains, but made for some crazy sunrise colors across the landscape.
Love that knife edge! This mountain gives a wonderful complete alpine experience.
Mike D' - Aug 2, 2022 4:33 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2022
Eldo hot day2-man team (Pete & Mike D)
Gear: hike shoes, poles, ice-axe/whippet
4:15am depart
6+ hours to summit
11:45 roundtrip
OwenT - Aug 6, 2020 10:49 pm Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2020
First N Cascades SummitGreat climb with some new friends.
berlindx - Jul 23, 2020 9:47 am Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2019
Great conditions, easy climb, georgous viewsTrip report with pictures here: https://flagtails.com/2020/07/05/eldorado-peak/
DawnchaserTheAdventurer - Oct 13, 2019 12:24 am Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2019
Straight up legendaryShort, steep slog, followed by some crazy crevasse navigating, and one of the gnarliest, most exhausting glacier ascents I've done in a while. Was too cloudy to get good views much of the time, but the few times the clouds broke, the sights were nothing short of legendary. Track up summit ridge was well-stamped out, and I didn't bother roping up for it since the snow was decently soft and the boot tracks deep and secure
bluecappo - Jun 18, 2019 12:39 pm Date Climbed: May 14, 2006
So Great!Such an epic traverse over to the summit and one of the best areas in the state!
travel_murse - Mar 20, 2019 2:08 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2019
Queen of the CascadesAn adventure I’ll never forget!
Youliana - Oct 28, 2018 11:47 pm Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2018
Eldorado!Gorgeous day trip. One of our party was on splitboard and enjoyed a fast descent.
beaudaddy85 - Oct 21, 2018 5:47 pm Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2017
Beautiful AreaSuch a beautiful area. Camped on Inspiration Glacier, summited following morning. Would be a great 1 day peak so you don't have to haul overnight gear.
LoganScamfer - Sep 25, 2018 6:51 pm Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2018
Succesful SummitA cold, somewhat cloudy summit, but amazing as a first time for me. My team reached the Eldorado Glacier first and trekked across it finding that new fallen snow covered at least 6 crevasses completely. A true knife edge summit, we had to move up the edge on the side rather than on the top. A truly rewarding climb.
funkstuf - Aug 14, 2018 7:09 pm Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2018
Summited in the cloudsFirst time up, celebrating 60th birthday and still hadn't been here. Lots of clear weather on the evening of the 2nd, then Friday morning we summited in the clouds without a view, and climbed down in a drizzle. The upside was that we were the only climbers and had the high camp and summit to ourselves. Very fun climb!
rtgomez90 - Jun 2, 2018 8:15 pm Date Climbed: May 25, 2018
E RidgeTwo days. Tough approach. A not-so-alpine start. Soft snow. Did it!
ZakG - Jan 23, 2018 9:25 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2012
Eldorado!Thirteen years after turning around at the Eldorado Glacier to go down to study for a final in a class I can't remember, I finally went back and climbed the peak. I wish I hadn't studied for that test that I can't remember anymore. Oh well, I finally did it.
Jake Robinson - Jul 19, 2017 3:13 am Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2017
East RidgeW/ Fletcher (repeat for him) after Dorado Needle. The route was easy and the summit ridge was a sidewalk - no need to rope up.
mvkazit - Jun 27, 2017 10:44 am Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2017
Supers scenicAwesome destination.
Full report: http://mvkazit.blogspot.com/2017/06/eldorado-peak.html
tcingrum - Aug 8, 2016 1:18 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2016
EldoradoOne day shot. Summit seems to go forever.
Ian Culhane - Aug 8, 2016 12:40 am Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2016
East RidgeRoute is in excellent conditions; virtually no crevasses for the entire way (and the only ones present are tiny). Excellent weather on the first day, but ended up summitting in a whiteout the second day. The ridge is fairly steep, but there's a well worth path to the top.
kevinsa - Jul 31, 2016 12:19 am Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2016
EldoradoAwesome climb - did it as a one-day
Ian Culhane - Jun 10, 2016 1:31 pm Date Climbed: May 21, 2016
East RidgeTechnically not a true summit, but I'm gonna call it one anyways. Hiked up Saturday afternoon through rain and a whiteout; camped just after the notch leading to Roush Basin. Snow starts at around 5200', just after the boulder fields. We ended up waiting all of Sunday for a storm to clear, and finally got blue skies that evening (first ones of the trip!). The five of us left camp at 2:30AM for the summit; climbing up the East ridge at sunrise was absolutely spectacular, especially with the blanket of clouds at around 5000'. The Eldorado/Inspiration glaciers are pretty tame currently; we didn't encounter any crevasses on our route. The final 50' of the knife edge ridge was pretty treacherous (60 degree slopes, huge cornice, and powdery snow from the previous night), so we decided to turn around. Back to the cars by around 2:30AM. An amazing climb altogether; I'll definitely be back someday to finish that last 50'.
mrjenks85 - Aug 24, 2015 6:41 pm Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2015
Becoming one of my favoritesI have lived in the Pacific Northwest for less than a year, so I have not done enough repeat summits to say for sure what my favorite peaks are. After 2 climbs of this one I know its going to be one on the list.
Did this one as a 2 day overnight where we stayed at the camp at the base of the ridge and climbed for a sunrise summit. Forrest fires obscured views of some of the mountains, but made for some crazy sunrise colors across the landscape.
Love that knife edge! This mountain gives a wonderful complete alpine experience.
slombardiclimber5 - Mar 17, 2015 5:59 pm Date Climbed: Feb 16, 2015
Winter Ascent EldoradoFirst ascent on a non major peak, incredible time via Inspiration Glacier