2-man team (Pete & Mike D)
Gear: hike shoes, poles, ice-axe/whippet
6+ hours to summit
Great climb with some new friends.
Trip report with pictures here: https://flagtails.com/2020/07/05/eldorado-peak/
Short, steep slog, followed by some crazy crevasse navigating, and one of the gnarliest, most exhausting glacier ascents I've done in a while. Was too cloudy to get good views much of the time, but the few times the clouds broke, the sights were nothing short of legendary. Track up summit ridge was well-stamped out, and I didn't bother roping up for it since the snow was decently soft and the boot tracks deep and secure
Such an epic traverse over to the summit and one of the best areas in the state!
An adventure I’ll never forget!
Gorgeous day trip. One of our party was on splitboard and enjoyed a fast descent.
Such a beautiful area. Camped on Inspiration Glacier, summited following morning. Would be a great 1 day peak so you don't have to haul overnight gear.
A cold, somewhat cloudy summit, but amazing as a first time for me. My team reached the Eldorado Glacier first and trekked across it finding that new fallen snow covered at least 6 crevasses completely. A true knife edge summit, we had to move up the edge on the side rather than on the top. A truly rewarding climb.
First time up, celebrating 60th birthday and still hadn't been here. Lots of clear weather on the evening of the 2nd, then Friday morning we summited in the clouds without a view, and climbed down in a drizzle. The upside was that we were the only climbers and had the high camp and summit to ourselves. Very fun climb!
Two days. Tough approach. A not-so-alpine start. Soft snow. Did it!
Thirteen years after turning around at the Eldorado Glacier to go down to study for a final in a class I can't remember, I finally went back and climbed the peak. I wish I hadn't studied for that test that I can't remember anymore. Oh well, I finally did it.
W/ Fletcher (repeat for him) after Dorado Needle. The route was easy and the summit ridge was a sidewalk - no need to rope up.
Full report: http://mvkazit.blogspot.com/2017/06/eldorado-peak.html
One day shot. Summit seems to go forever.
Route is in excellent conditions; virtually no crevasses for the entire way (and the only ones present are tiny). Excellent weather on the first day, but ended up summitting in a whiteout the second day. The ridge is fairly steep, but there's a well worth path to the top.
Awesome climb - did it as a one-day
Technically not a true summit, but I'm gonna call it one anyways. Hiked up Saturday afternoon through rain and a whiteout; camped just after the notch leading to Roush Basin. Snow starts at around 5200', just after the boulder fields. We ended up waiting all of Sunday for a storm to clear, and finally got blue skies that evening (first ones of the trip!). The five of us left camp at 2:30AM for the summit; climbing up the East ridge at sunrise was absolutely spectacular, especially with the blanket of clouds at around 5000'. The Eldorado/Inspiration glaciers are pretty tame currently; we didn't encounter any crevasses on our route. The final 50' of the knife edge ridge was pretty treacherous (60 degree slopes, huge cornice, and powdery snow from the previous night), so we decided to turn around. Back to the cars by around 2:30AM. An amazing climb altogether; I'll definitely be back someday to finish that last 50'.
I have lived in the Pacific Northwest for less than a year, so I have not done enough repeat summits to say for sure what my favorite peaks are. After 2 climbs of this one I know its going to be one on the list.
Did this one as a 2 day overnight where we stayed at the camp at the base of the ridge and climbed for a sunrise summit. Forrest fires obscured views of some of the mountains, but made for some crazy sunrise colors across the landscape.
Love that knife edge! This mountain gives a wonderful complete alpine experience.
First ascent on a non major peak, incredible time via Inspiration Glacier