Included an unplanned bivy 2/3 of the way up. Just dumb luck that our trip was Friday-Sunday, instead of Saturday-Monday. Our Saturday night bivy was one of the warmest & calmest I've seen in the Cascades. The next night the mountains were hit by major thunderstorms, starting forest fires that burned for months all over the range.
Climbed with party of 3.
Great summit day. Lots of snow. East ridge was a little hairy with the knife edge and all, but no problems. One of my favorite summits. Will return to try a winter attempt.
Caught a beautiful day between smoke and an approaching storm. Great classic North Cascades views in every direction.
Set off from car at 8:30am, packing light for one day ascent. Reached summit at 4pm. Nasty weather with no view (visibility about 40 feet). Rain coming down hard. All smiles though as we set off for home with no idea of the agonizing and excruciating descent that awaited us....
You'll have to read my trip report for details.
Beautiful weather. Camped at 7500', just below the summit ridge. Great views from the camp. Even better views from the summit. That's one I'll do again. (Am I the only one that likes the boulder field?)
Got turned around twice this Spring so it was nice to bag this beast finally.
Fantastic climb with my good friend Nick.
First trip to the North Cascades. Challenging hike in but the awesome views made it worth it. Beautiful summit morning, warmed quickly leading to serious postholing on the descent. I would do it again, even with the arduous approach.
full conditions for 4 days. no views of nothing. just the feeling of complete nothingness to the left and right of me on that knife ridge!
First time in the North Cascades and got to learn what climbing here means. Exciting creek crossings, brutal approaches over brush and talus and steep terrain. This was an awesome climb with the famous knife edge ridge climb and impressive summit views in every direction. Definitely a classic climb.
Impressive mountain! The approach to camp was interesting to say the least - we were surprised by how much snow was still around. Great views from camp of Sahalie Peak and Boston Basin. The summit knife-edge ridge was truly breathtaking - we placed several pickets for protection.
Long difficult approach in early season but well worth it. The summit is one of most exhilarating I have visited.
One heck of a climb. Be extra careful at the top (last few hundred feet), we had a little "incident".
This mixed route is a little trickier than the standard route. The mixed rock and ice climbing, remote setting, and exposure really add to the alpine ambiance. We backed off a few pitches up as the weather really started to move in, we were already pushing the limits of our mixed climbing skills, and were nearly out of slings from the other climbs we had done in the tepeh towers. I guess I would rather back of and live to climb again.
The east ridge was in great condition and the weather was wonderful. The Knife-edge mollows out at the top this late in the season to a slightly wider style of knife before one reaches the rocky area just below the summit.
Another amazing classic in the North Cascades/Cascade Pass area. Camped at the edge of Eldorado Glacier. Ascended the East Ridge and climbed the corniced summit during a minor summer snowstorm. The clouds opened up enough to see Eldorado Glacier a few times, other then that there was no view, even so, it was more then worth it.
Wow, what a climb! After the strenuous hike to where we camped at 5700', summit day was spectacular. For only being a peak at just under 8900', the 3500'+ of elevation gain to camp will definitely stand out in my mind as "fun". We spent the night at camp before summiting and left for the summit at 0530 and were back by noon. Spent the rest of the day and evening relaxing and enjoying the North Cascades. We descended the next morning which took nearly as long due to havig to negotiate the talus fields.
Climbed out of the fog to a beautiful sunny day!
This was a two day climb. The toe of the Eldorado glacier seems to be unstable, as it was cracking and breaking underneath us in the early morning! Lots of crevasses to negotiate with. The views are breath taking from the ridge crest on. The talus field is the worst part of the climb! A must-do climb!