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La montagna chiama i suoi figli, ed essi rispondono fedelmente al suo appello… Osvaldo Cardellina, Diario alpinistico, 1964-65 Page texts: @ OsvaldoCardellina "Osva", passed away on May 2, 2022. Page owners: Christian Cardellina e Osvaldo Cardellina. Any updates from September 12, 2022: Antonio Giani, page administrator, friend and climbing companion. Testi della pagina: @ OsvaldoCardellina "Osva", scomparso il 2 maggio 2022. Proprietari pagina: Christian Cardellina e Osvaldo Cardellina. Eventuali aggiornamenti dal 12 settembre 2022: Antonio Giani, amministratore della pagina, amico e compagno di salite. |
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In this regard Considerable "Reading Room" published in SP related to EMILIUS
NOTEWORTY "READING ROOM" in SUMMITPOST.org. to bring in 33 ROUTES: Emilius, by marco979 & livioz; Edit. Apr 23th, 2001. Emilius Normal Route from Pila; "My Routes", by marco979; Edit. Oct 23th, 2003. Becca di Nona, by Maria Grazia s; Edit. Apr 10th, 2004. Punta di Arpisson, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Apr 18th, 2005. Punta Garin, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Oct 20th, 2005. Monte Emilius GROUP, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Feb 15th, 2006. Punta Rossa dell'Emilius, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Aug 23th, 2007. Punta di Leppe, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Sep 02th, 2007. Via Ferrata Monte Emilius, by buxlex; Edit. Sep 24th, 2007. Punta de la Pierre, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Dec 22th, 2007. Testa Nera, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Dec 28th, 2007. Mont (Tour) Grauson, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Jan 12th, 2008. Grande Roise, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Jan 30th, 2008. Punta della Valletta, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Feb 07th, 2008. Becca di Salé, by Antonio Giani; Edit Mar 26th, 2008. Becca di Seneva or Le Cordagne, by Antonio Giani; Edit. May 05th, 2008. Such a shame! "Apartheid" in Charvensod; "My articles", by buxlex; Edit Sep 07th, 2008. Views of Monte Emilius, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Apr 25th, 2009. 33 ROUTES OF MONTE EMILIUS (3559m) First Part (route), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Jun 01th, 2009. ALL ROUTES (20 + 1 historical) OF PUNTA TERSIVA (Route), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Aug 04th, 2009. All routes (40) of Peak Garin (Route), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Sep 09th, 2009. Mont Ross di Comboè, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Sep 14th, 2009. Punta di Laures, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Nov 12th, 2009. Punta Ilario Antonio Garzotto, by Antonio Giani; Edit Dec 18th, 2009. Punte Gianni Junod, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Jan 02th, 2010. Punte del Lago Gelato, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Jan 13th. 2010. Testa Blantsette, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Jan 22th, 2010. Mont Perè Laurent, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Jan 26th, 2010. Emilius's in the SUMMIT and Surroundings EMOTIONS & SUGGESTIONS First Part (Album), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Mar 11th, 2010. F)- GREAT PARADISE or MOUNT ISERAN/ THE GRIVOLA - RIGHT SIDE Sixth Part (List), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. May 28th, 2010. Try positioning the CROSS on two Gianni JUNOD POINTS (3300m), failed for hard snowy storm (Art.), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Sep 12th, 2010. Mont des Laures, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Sep 22th, 2010. EMILIUS's, my Refuges, Bivouacs, Alps & Occasional Shelters (Album), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Oct 26th, 2010. Folklore & Funny Histories & Tales between "Becca" & Emilius & Alentours I° (Fact Sheets), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Nov 11th, 2011. Punta del Dard or Waterfall's Point (2033m) also Becca de R(i)en, by Osvaldo Cardellina & SalVal; Edit. Jan 12th, 2012. Folklore ... & Funny Histories & Tales Curtain II° (Fact Sheets), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Mar 21th, 2012. 33 ROUTES of M. EMILIUS Marathon Tours & Other Things (Second Part) (Route), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. May 04th, 2013. Folklore & ... Funny Histories & ... Curtain III° (Fact Sheets), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. May 24th, 2013. Folk ... & Curtain IV° (Personalities & Characters) (Fact Sheets), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. May 24th, 2013. EMILIUS 33 ROUTES HISTORY Climbings Scrambles & Ascents (Third Part) (Route), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. May 25th, 2013. Curtain V° (Particular Deep & Strong Personalities) (Fact Sheets), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Jun 29th, 2013. Curtain VI° (Emilius's Future Generations) (Fact Sheets), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Jun 29th, 2013. Curtain VII° (Ridges & Walls) (Fact Sheets), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Jun 30th, 2013. EMILIUS's 33 ROUTES (Schematic Plan of the OPERA & Various AUTHORS) Fourth Part (Route), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Jul 05th, 2013. 33 ROUTES (Synthetic Tables of First Ascents-Winter-Solitaries & Other) Five Part (Route), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Jul 07th, 2013. 33 ROUTES Ten SUMMITS (for Ten Great TRAVERSEs) Sixth Part (Route), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Jul 11th, 2013. EMILIUS's GROUP 33 (for Old Classic Normal Routes & Other) Seven Part (Route), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Jul 17th, 2013. 33 routes EMILIUS's The MODERN MAGIC ERA Eight Part (Route), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Jul 26th, 2013. CURT ... VIII° Lochs Lakes Ponds & LEGENDS First Part (Fact Sheets), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Jul 30th, 2013. CURT ... IX° Lochs Lakes Ponds & LEGENDS Second Part (Fact Sheets), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Aug 05th, 2013. 33 Emilius's All Routes & Variants Traced Nine Part (Route), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Aug 13th, 2013. Incredible Exploit: the Renowned "Mountagnin" Peter Cardellaìna "Threece" Winner of Terrible M. St. Julien (A.), by O. Card.; Edit. Aug 23th, 2013. CURT X° Walls, Faces & Crests of the Surroundings (Fact Sheets), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Aug 30th, 2013. CURT XI° Over there to the Graian Southeast - First Part (Fact Sheets), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Sep 06th, 2013. CURT XI° Over there to the Graian Southeast - Second Part (Fact Sheets), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Sep 06th, 2013. Emilius & Surroundings EMOTIONS & SUGGESTIONS Second Part (Album), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Oct 02th, 2013. Travel from all the Summits of "GRANPA" (Trip Reports), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Oct 29th, 2013. H)- Southern RANGES VALLONS & VALLEYS Summary (List), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Nov 02th, 2013. AOSTA VALLEY Southern Orographic and Hydrographic VALLEYS & WALLOONS-First Part (List), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Nov 24th, 2013. H)- Southern RANGES Summary. REWORKED PAGE, by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Nov 24th, 2013. CURT XI° Over there to the Graian Southeast - Third Part (Fact Sheets), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Nov 29th, 2013. Pointe d'Ervillères or Erveillères, by Osvaldo Cardellina; Dec 08th, 2013. Curtain VII° The "Becca" (Ridges & Walls) Second Part (Fact Sheets), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Dec 24th, 2013. GERVASUTTI & CHABOD "BATTLE for the North FACE of the JORASSES" (Article), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Jan 12th, 2014. On the Trail of an old Trek of Exploration (1902) - First Part (Trip Reports), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Jan 22th, 2014. On the Old Discovery Trail since 1902 until 2000 But even us ... - Second Part (Trip Reports), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Jan 27th, 2014. On the trail ... Abbé Joseph-Marie Henry & Guide Grégoire (1902) to the present day - Third (T. R.), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Jan 30th, 2014. Emilius The Mountain by The Monks Abbots Canons Priests & Reverends (Article), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Feb 03th, 2014. Punta del Dard or Waterfall's Point (2033m) also Becca de R(i)en. REWORKED PAGE, by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Feb 23th, 2014. WANDERING on Aosta Valley by SNOWSHOES (Album), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Mar 16th, 2014. Seventy-seven Southern Streets in 7 Valleys by Snow Shoes/1a (Route), by Osvaldo Cardellina Edit. Apr 07th, 2014. Seventy-seven Streets in Central Valleys by Snow Shoes/2 (Route), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Apr 13th, 2014. Petite Roise, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Jul 22th, 2014. Punta di Lussert, by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Aug 25th, 2014. Lussert Summit (3221m) a Mountain sinked into oblivion (Article), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Sep 15th, 2014. "The Becca": Curiosities and Strangenesses /A (Article), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Oct 06th, 2014. "The Becca": Who and what caused the landslide of 2000? /B (Article), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Oct 08th, 2014. Trilogy of the Becca: dominating three sacred valleys /C (Article), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Oct 11th, 2014. Mont Vallonet, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Oct 11th, 2014. Punta di Pian Bessey, by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Nov 15th, 2014. Pila Basin (Area/Range), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Nov 18th, 2014. Tsaplane or Testa Chapiana, by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Nov 25th, 2014. The Miracle of the Madonna of Tsaplana (Article), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Nov 26th, 2014. Val de Cogne/Northern Area (A) (Area/Range), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Nov 29th, 2014. M. Emilius North Wall: All new routes of the postwar period / Ten part-2) (Route), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Dec 18th, 2014. Pointes Coupées d'Arpisson; by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Dec 26th, 2014. But the UFO are also in Mountain? (Article), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Jan 11th, 2015. Tour d'Arpisson; by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Jan 12th, 2015. M. Emilius North Face: All routes until the end of World War II° / Ten part-1) (Route), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Jan 23th, 2015. Mountain for everyone in Aosta Valley: Thirty easy Routes to South (10 + 20) / A (Route), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Jan 27th, 2015. Comboé and "Becca": a Walk for an Excursion for Kids & Teens / 2 (Article), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Mar 07th, 2015. Comboé and "Becca": a Walk for an Excursion for Kids & Teens / 1 (Article), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Mar 15th, 2015. Pila Comboé & "Becca": a Tourist-Cultural Walk for Kids Teens & Adults / 3 (Article), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Mar 23th, 2015. South Valley: hemiknown unknown & abandoned Summits / First part (Album), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. May 05th, 2015. Lakes's Trekking: Intervalleys n° 102 Route (Route), by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Jun 15th, 2015. Trident de Comboé, by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Jun 19th, 2015.
ROUTES with PHOTOS by various AUTHORS
*******This exhibition of photos of the proposed action, starting clockwise from "Crest of the Three Capuchins" universally known as the Normal Route, a little "taste" of all the ridges and walls topographically belonging to the Mount Emilius. Fairly regular pyramid with four ridges and the same faces is abnormal in its structure, such as the Black Triangle, large vertical wall and rocky, going to "stick" between the North and East Walls (sui generis of the Great Angle Pillar into Wall Brenva to Mount Blanc), while in the East and South ridges are linear, sudden or steep (the North-northeast Edge or "Crest of the Three Curates", which represents the margin East of the Triangle.) in the West down the long West Ridge (now well known since 2004 and popular "Via Ferrata") which, after the Little Emilius is directed, almost in a straight line, the Red Mount of Comboé, mighty big shoulder with three faces: one to the North of the great Northern Wall of Emilius conclusive and another steep and rocky , between the Carrel Hill and Ròss Pass, falling over reddish moraines overlying the Valé's Tableland and the path alleging Federigo Zullo Bivouac (existing since 1984). A third is made up of a South side is not too steep coming down with a rock band mixed with moraine above the "Ponds of Boulders" in the West (as well as me baptized for the gigantic boulders that "float" in the narrow waters), the largest Frozen Lake. From the Mount Ross of Comboé the West Ridge splits: one branch goes Northwest to the Federigo Bivouac Carrel then get up to the Hill to form the Becca of Nona, dividing the wild Vallon of Arpisson from the high of Comboé/Plan Valé, while the second is facing in the opposite direction, ie to the South-southwest, and, after the Ròss Pass, stretches into the Vallon and the Refuge Arbolle. We'll call it, then, Buttress S-SW, the street gets up first to form the Points of the Frozen Loch, a second pass, in practice never crossed except by hunters, said Col de Comboé and finally a trident rocky said, in fact, Trident of Comboé. This long (endless if followed to the Emilius) and jagged ridge is dividing between the Walloons and the Comboé to Arbolle, up to the highest part of this last. The walls are facing South and Southwest with a gentle slope from the "Crest of the Three Capuchins" gradually sweeps westward, doubling in two faces at a large rocky outcrop that rises up to the West Ridge, near a characteristic gray wall. That's right, most facing South, it is easier and ground, at least in the medium to high crisscrossed by a large snowy rocky couloir, which ends on a steep rocky beam to form the plinth base. The left one is shaped by a complex rock salt in which a small gully with rocky soil and is easily identifiable for a long vein of white quartz (Via Giuseppe Corona of 1875).
Formed the Mont Ròss, North precipitates a high Wall up to 680 meters wide and over a kilometer, with a spur-shaped big udder, which is outlined in the lower split the two Glaciers Western and Eastern over the Arpisson's Walloon, of the same name, at its Eastern end stands the imposing dark Black Triangle with its 400 meters of vertical rock culminating at the top with a big "cannon" cantilever of about ten meters. This "predicts" the great leap vertical wall of the East, more than 500 meters above the Glacier of Blantsette into Vallon of The Laures. Its margin-left is the East Ridge, after a rocky promontory on which has been placed a cross, called the Charrey, in memory of the misfortune of '29 on the East, and steep climbs fairly easy coming a few steps South of the Peak . This ridge is also know as "Crest of Brissogne" as it is the normal route for the residents of this town. Between this and the "Crest of the Three Capuchin" high salt, regular and triangular wall above the tiny Icy Lake and in the direction Lake Dessus or Upper of the Laures, also called "Lac Dzacquin", crossed in the middle by several rocky channels at its base stands an imposing bastion of rock band entirely, constituting the difficult entrance door to it, consists of two parts with a slope completely different. This mini roundup-summary roundup of various Authors, may be useful in forming an idea of the topographical conformation, as well as in the composition of climbing routes, keeping in mind that the fundamentals are in fact 10 Routes (See First Part of 33 ROUTES), to which we have wanted to add 2 more, having material available, meaning the South Slope and the South-southwest Buttress. For a more detailed and comprehensive view of the same refer to individual pages edited in SP, possibly using the General Framework of the Opera, here above, to constitute a valid, but not full account track.
Quest'esposizione di foto di azione propone, partendo in senso orario dalla "Cresta dei Tre Cappuccini" universalmente conosciuta come Via Normale, un piccolo "assaggio" di tutte le creste e le pareti topograficamente appartenenti al Monte Emilius. Piramide abbastanza regolare con quattro creste ed altrettante facce presenta delle anomalie nella sua struttura, come il Triangolo Nero, grande parete verticale e rocciosa, che va ad "incollarsi" tra le Pareti Nord ed Est (sui generis del Grand Pilier d'Angle sulla Parete della Brenva al Monte Bianco); mentre ad Oriente ed a Mezzogiorno le creste sono lineari, repentine o ripide (lo Spigolo Nord-nordest o "Cresta dei Tre Curati", che costituisce il margine Est del Triangolo). Ad Occidente scende la lunga Cresta Ovest (attualmente dal 2004 molto conosciuta e frequentata "Via Ferrata") che, dopo il Piccolo Emilius si indirizza, quasi in rettilineo, al Mont Ròss de Comboé, poderosa Spallone con tre facce: una verso Settentrione conclusiva della grande Parete Nord dell'Emilius ed un'altra ripida e rocciosa, compresa tra il Colle Carrel ed il Col Ròss, cascante sopra le rossicce morene soprastanti il Pian di Valé ed il sentiero adducente al Bivacco Federigo Zullo (esiste dal 1984). Una terza é costituita da un versante Meridionale non troppo ripido che cala, con una fascia rocciosa frammista a morena, sopra i "Laghetti dei Macigni" (così da me battezzati per i ciclopici massi che "galleggiano" nelle ristrette acque) ad Ovest del più grande Lago Gelato. Dal Mont Ròss di Comboé la Cresta Ovest si sdoppia: un ramo discende a Nordovest verso il Bivacco Federigo al Colle Carrel per poi rialzarsi a formare la Becca di Nona, divisorio il selvaggio Vallone dell' Arpisson da quello alto di Comboé/Plan Valé; il secondo invece é rivolto in direzione opposta, ovvero a Sud-sudovest, e, dopo il Col Ròss, s'allunga verso il Vallone ed il Rifugio di Arbolle. Lo denomineremo, quindi, Contrafforte S-SW; per istrada si rialza dapprima a formare le Punte del Lago Gelato, un secondo valico, in pratica mai attraversato se non da cacciatori, detto Col de Comboé ed infine un tridente roccioso, detto, appunto, Trident de Comboé. Questa lunga (interminabile se percorsa sino all'Emilius) e frastagliata cresta é divisoria tra i Valloni del Comboé e quello di Arbolle, fino alla parte più elevata di questo ultimo. Le pareti sono rivolte a Sud e Sudovest con un versante che dalla "Cresta dei Tre Cappuccini" digrada progressivamente verso Ovest, sdoppiandosi in due facce presso un grande sperone roccioso risalente fino alla Cresta Ovest, nei pressi di un caratteristico muro grigio. Quella di destra, maggiormente rivolta verso Sud, é più facile e frantumata, almeno nella parte medio alta, solcata da un grande canale roccioso-nevoso, che termina sopra un ripido fascio roccioso tale da formar lo zoccolo di base. Quella di sinistra é costutuita da una complessa parete rocciosa all'interno della quale sale un esiguo canalino roccioso con terriccio ed é facilmente individuabile per una lunga vena di quarzo bianco (Via Giuseppe Corona del 1875).
Formato il Mont Ròss, a Nord precipita una muraglia alta fino a 680 metri e larga oltre un Km., con uno sperone a forma di grande mammella, che si delinea in basso a dividere i due Ghiacciaietti Ovest ed Est dell'Arpisson sopra l'omonimo vallone; alla sua estremità Orientale si erge imponente lo scuro Triangolo Nero con i suoi 400 metri di roccia verticale culminanti in vetta con un grande "cannone" a sbalzo d'una decina di metri. Questo "preannuncia" il grande salto della verticale Parete Est, di oltre 500 metri sopra il Ghiacciaio di Blantsette nel Vallone delle Laures. Il suo margine di sinistra costituisce la Cresta Est che, dopo un promontorio roccioso sul quale é stata posita una croce, detta dei Charrey, a ricordo della disgrazia del '29 sulla Est, sale abbastanza facile e ripida arrivando a qualche passo a Sud della Vetta. Questa cresta é inoltre conosciuta come "Cresta di Brissogne", poiché costituisce la Via Normale per gli abitanti di questo comune. Tra questa e la "Cresta dei Tre Cappuccini" s'eleva un'alta, regolare e triangolare parete sopra il minuscolo Lago Ghiacciato ed in direzione del Lago Dessus des Laures, detto anche "Lac Dzacquin", solcata nel mezzo da diversi canali rocciosi; alla sua base si erge un'imponente bastione roccioso che la fascia interamente, costituendo la difficile porta di ingresso alla medesima, formata da due parti con pendenza completamente diversa. Questa mini carrellata fotografica, di varii Autori, può essere di utilità nel formare un'idea della conformazione topografica, nonché nella composizione delle vie di salita, tenendo presente che le Vie Fondamentali sono in effetti 10 (Vedi Prima parte di 33 ROUTES), alle quali ne abbiamo voluto aggiungere altre 2, avendo materiale a disposizione; ovvero il Versante Sud e il Contrafforte Sud-sudovest. Per una più dettagliata ed esaustiva visione delle medesime rimandiamo alle singole pagine editate in SP, eventualmente utilizzando il Quadro Generale dell'Opera, qui sopra esposto, tale da costituire una valida, ma non completa traccia.
ROUTES with PHOTOS by various AUTHORS (List clockwise starting from the S-SE Crest of the "Three Capuchins" Route or Normal) ***
S-SE Crest of Three Capuchins Pila 1823, Gimillan or Les Laures (Ménabreaz Refuge), by Corvus.
S-SW Slope up Frozen Lake, route from Pila, Arbolle Vallon, Gelato Lake 1994, by Roy Cardellina.
S-W Face up Boulders Ponds, routes from Pila and Arbolle Vallon 1986, by Danilo Garzotto.
SW Buttress and W Ridge from Pila, Arbolle Alpage 1974, by Camillo Roberto Ferronato.
W Slope Ròss Pass, S-SW & W Ridges from Pila, Comboé Vallon 1977, by Camillo Roberto Ferronato.
W-NW Ridge or Via, actually, Ferrata from Pila, Carrel Pass 1976, by Osw.
N Wall New Routes, "Mixed Route" and "Mammellone Route" from Peckoz Shelter 1942, by Ourlaz Family.
N Wall first absolute, "Left Pillar" from Pila and Comboé Alps, Peckoz Shelter, 1926 & 1927, by Lino Binel.
N Wall "Direct Route" from Pila, Carrel Hill, Arpisson W Glacier 1980, by Camillo Roberto Ferronato.
N Wall "Superdirect Route" from Pila, Carrel Hill, Arpisson W Glacier 1984, by Camillo Roberto Ferronato.
Black Triangle first "A. Bozzetti-P. Rosset Route" from Comboé, Hill, W & E Glaciers 1960, by ? Pétey.
Black Triangle NW Face "Senza Parole/Bocconi Amari" from Federigo, W & E Glaciers, by Ezio Marlier 2006.
N-NE Edge "Three Curates" from Pila, Carrel Hill, (first from Les Laures 1906) & 1976 (Integral), by Osw.
E Wall "G. Gervasutti-R. Chabod 1935" from Laures, Blantsette Glac. first repetition 1946, by Franco Garda.
E Wall New "Right Route" from Ménabreaz Shelter, Blantsette Glacier 1969, by Renato Quendoz.
E Crest from Ernesto Ménabreaz Ref. at the Laures, Charrey/Norat Cross (1902 Route), by "Gigi" Gadin.
SE Face from Ménabreaz Refuge at the Laures Lower, Long and Upper Lakes 1988, by Osw.
