Epitaph, 5.9+

3rd Pitch- 45m- 5.9+/ This pitch could easily be graded 5.10. It involves a sustained fist crack up to the roof. Directly off the hanging belay, place a C4 #5 in the wide flake and traverse left into the corner. It starts out C4 #4 and gives up #3’s intermittently. If I led this pitch again, I would take at least four of each and save one 3 for the traverse and one 4 for the roof pull itself, otherwise place most of them in the wide crack up to the roof. When traversing the roof, the crack allows you to place a few medium sized pieces. Every placement must be well extended to avoid extreme rope pull when pulling the roof and continuing for another 30’ to a fixed belay. Otherwise you will have to set up a hanging belay at the end of the roof on one piece (#4).
Epitaph, 5.9+, 3 Pitches, Flying Buttress, Sedona, AZ, 2012

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rpc

rpc - Oct 11, 2012 3:52 pm - Voted 10/10

amazing!

don't think I even knew of this climb before Dow...& this photo just makes me drool. Wild!!

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Oct 11, 2012 4:23 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: amazing!

I know Sedona can be a bit sandbagged once in a while and I thought this pitch was full on for the grade (harder than anything I led on Earth Angel and I led all the pitches on both)...the funny thing is that on MP...they talk about the first 2 pitches...I thought both of those were pretty laid back...so just meandering into this last pitch...half way up... C4 #3 and #4 crack to the roof, I was breathing heavy. It is a wicked pitch and a must do! Stacy and I are going to try and do Scenic Cruise on Sat if it does not rain too much...your beta already printed out as always...you two make everything look fun...cheers Radek

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