Started from the road and got to the west summit but thought the risks were too great vs. the reward to climb the last 20ft mud tower to the summit.
Hiked up from the ski resort and droppedy travel bag at a cache point at 2420m. Following the maintenance roads I think I arrived near to Cobainini and found a lot of water at the spring. I climbed directly up one of the couloirs and bivied below what I presume was the Camel's Hump. The following morning I climbed over the hump (~300' of sometimes loose class 4). A little while later i reached the base of the summit block. I soloed the top then down climbed following the line of 3 pitons. The technical section is only about 5 meters. There are good rests but it is very exposed and the rock is questionable so think twice. I descended via the East Ridge. I saw a group of 20 Turks climbing behind me who camped at the regular place during my bivy night.
Glacier ascent, demanding, steep and with stones flying around. But descending the same way was really slow and tiring. I didn't dare to climb the last 17 metres rock.
The mountain gave me a splendid day as a present - so I used it! I just gave up on the last, 10-15 meters high rock (I hiked alone). Accent via the classic path (east side, left ridge), descent straight down, below the Camel's Hump. Deep but solid snow, seemed not risky for avalanches...
The second lift was closed so I had to start the hike from 2450 meters elevation. Easy along the eastridge, then passing Camel Hump Rock on the right side (soft snow). Reached the East Summit after almost 4 hours. Then continuing to the true summit (West Summit) where I met 2 Turkish guys. One of them belayed me to the top! A very exposed pitch in loose rocks (grade III/IV)
The summitlog on the West Peak, had not seen any summits since 12 months. Thus a rarely climbed peak, because of the difficult last 15 meters...
I was there with a girl in July, 1998. We were hitch-hiking around in Turkey and I wanted to climb this mountain. Unfortunately we didn't bring enough water, so after reaching the first snowpatch (I estimaed our height to 3000m), we had a snowfight and turned back.
Start from the pass. Till that big rock everthing ok. I've tried to climb over. The view from rock discouraged me and i decided to return. Few hundreds meter later i've meet two men from Kayseri. One of them showed me the proper way, which went around the rock from the lower side. I would never consider that as a path. Some other time...
Solo climbing to the top...more pics...
and i download few pics...this page too...evening..
BC- near the waterline (appr. 2850 m asl)
route- east ridge up to the Devil's Gully
we start about 8 and did it quite easily up to the Devil's Gully
for we had only trekking equipment our attempt to pass DG was unsuccessful
an ice-mud fall stopped my ambitions
perhaps next time
problems- sheppards' dogs
very nice ascent with a fantastic view on the top, great ambiance !
I couldn' climb the last 20 meters because I finished alone, my partner had sopped at around 3500 meters because of the falling rocks and the very hard snow. I didn't trust the old rope installed on the top....
If I had only one advise to tell, it would be : bring a helmet ! We would have paid much to have one...
The slopes must be very pleasant with skis, I've to come back during winter !
Camp I 2800m
Topheight 3650m, north ridge. Time the end.
We go back and climbed this route up, to the really top.
Solo-Trans. Climbed from north face (via Tarak Kayalar) and descent on east face (Evil's Gully).
Excellent trip with a previous attempt by the north face.
There are many rocks falling on this route, especially end of summer.
The normal route, starting at the skiing resort follow a long ridge ; a very easy way brings you to the summit where there is a sign-in book.
By any route, you better wear a helmet.
Pictures to be scanned soon