Espolón Central directa

Espolón Central directa

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 38.59708°N / 0.19981°W
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Winter
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Difficulty: Dsup (max V-). 500 mts.
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 9
Sign the Climber's Log


You start at the "Font del Molí" Parking Lot. To get there you have to ride to FINESTRAT an small village close to BENIDORM. From Benidorm get the N-332 highway to the south and then the Cv-767 to the village. The parking lot is like over the village.

From the parking lot follow the road further up till you get to a big bend ( 300mts further from the parking lot) on the road. Follow the trail looking for white and yellow marks on it (This is a trail that surrounds the mountain). After 45 minutes you have the wall at yoour left hand, leave the trail and go directly to the base.

Route Description

First pitch. 60 mts. Climb the wall to a short groove. Up this to a ledge and continue up the broken groove to reach a good ledge IV-.
Climb left across the groove and up the arete (pegs) to a ledge V-. Take care with loose rock on this pitch.
Second pitch.(60 mts) Climb directly up the grooves above to reach the large ledge iV. Scramble horizontally right to the arete proper, threads. Avoid the broken grooves on the left or slabs above the ledge.
Third pitch. Climb up the arete to the next good ledge. IV.
Fourth Pitch. Up the arete moving left at the top to a ledge and peg belay. Retreat is possible from here using a bolt on the left. 40 mts
Fifth Pitch. Climb the groove on the left of the pillar and continue up easily to a large tree. Scramble right over ledges to the base of a steeper wall. 40 m IV+

Sixth pitch. Follow the arete to the base of the wall. Trend left and follow the groove to the crest, or climb the groove to the left, or the centre of the wall. 40 m IV.
Seventh Pitch. Climb the arete by the groove on the left. Continue up ledges to a good thread belay. 50 m 1V
Eighth Pitch 30m IV. Climb the ridge by cracks and grooves to the large ledge. Climb the zig-zag crack to a good belay but poor pegs.
Nineth 30m IV. The groove on the right leads to easy ground.
A further 20m of scrambling reaches a boulder with a faded red paint mark on it. From here a long traverse right (cairns) can be made to reach the far gully.

Essential Gear

Two ropes, 10 quick draws, Cams and nuts. Don't forget the helmet!!!. Carry comfortable shoes for the descent.


Topo of the route:
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