Anyone have any idea what typical climbing conditions of the route are like in mid-December. Good time to climb it with winter gear?
December can be good later in the month as the snow base adds up. This December isn't looking so good. Half of the ridge is still bare or covered with a very thin later of snow that creates a dangerous mix of unsupportable snow and wet rock. Pray for snow!
I'm looking to climb this December & am looking for any advice from somebody that's climbed the ridge recently. Any help would be appreciated.
In December, the snow is rarely consolidated, so expect loose, granular snow. That could make the slogging difficult and "the step" a little sketchy. Most climbers try this route in mid January through March because the snow depth improves and you get more inversions and "melt, freeze" cycles that provide consolidated snow and firm surface for climbing. Other than that, simply wait for good avalanche conditions. The upper third of the route would be fatal if you triggered an avalanche (again why most climbers wait until March when the snow is traditionally more stable).